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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I use to have a small 12g nano. But I am buying a 75g with equipment this weekend. Well on my old tank since it was so small I use to just buy water, but I could never afford that with a big tank. So yesterday I ordered a RO/DI system 50gpd and salt mix.
Anyways, PLEASE help. I have never used one before. I plan on attaching it to my bathroom sink, and just leaning it agains the wall, then when not in use I want to store it, so I don't have to look at it. I have well water, to produce 75g with one of these hooked up to the sink how much would that add to my electric bill? I don't have a water bill since I have a well, but I do have a bill for the water pump in my well. And can I lean my RO/DI system against a wall while in use, or is that bad for it, and won't work?
What else? How do you use and maintain them? Please help, I have no idea.
 

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its an extra 50g per day, however most RO/DI units produce 1 good gallon and UP TO 4 waste gallons.

so basically it produces 50 good gallons a day....and 200 gallons a day total depending what model RO/DI it is.

what is your water pressure at the faucets? If WP is too low it wont work and youd have to get a booster pump. Use is easy, however you will need a storage container to put the good water in, and might as well just dump the waste water outside so it doesnt take up valueble space in your septic tank.

Maintence is easy, they come with a wrench for the filter housing( this is why they are much easier to work on mounted, good luck getting it off without the unit bolted down). now much else really to them its a brita on a much larger scale.

Id mount it to a board or make a way to mount it to something portable yet solid.
 

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Agree, trying to change a cartridge without it being screwed into a wall is going to be very difficult. And forget about it if you don't have the special wrench, lol. That is no fun. As for attaching to a sink, also know that there are also garden hose attachments you can get at Home Depot to feed the unit from the hose outside if you want to.
 

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A standard RO or RO/DI system has a 4:1 waste ratio, meaning it uses 4 gallons to flush the accumulated dissolved solids away from the RO membrane for every 1 gallon of treated water it produces.
Keep in mind, depending on what system you purchased and what membrane it uses it may or may not produce a full 50 Gallons in a full 24 hour period. Membranes require 50 to 65 psi and 77 degree water temperature to produce this number. Lower pressures and/or lower temperatures produce less water and both also produce higher waste flows above the normal 4:1, it can go as high as 20:1 at times.

Your well pressure switch is probably set at 30-40 psi which is very common with domestic well systems. You may be on the ragged edge or an RO even functioning. Do you know what your pressures are? If you don't have a gauge on the pressure tank you may want to get a gauge and hose bib adapter and see where the well pump kicks on and off at. You may need a RO booster pump, its cheaper to operate a small RO pump than it is to raise the well pressure settings.

Yes, best case your well will cycle more frequently but not really any different than flushing the toilet occasionally. It also depends on how big your captive air or pressure tank is, the larger your water storage tank the less often it will cycle. Worst case is you may need a RO booster pump which runs about $125 with a pressure switch and 24v DC power supply.

Personally I would try and mount the unit somewhere, I have mine on the wall by the washing machine. Its fed from the cold wate rsupply line to the washer via a brass garden hose wye adapter and the waste goes into the washer drain line. Using one portable usually leads to it getting knocked over and fittings snapped off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank You.

Well where what kind of adapter do I ask for the garden hose, and if I do that, do I put the unit outside?
Can you get a pic of one?
Thank you
 

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You can get the garden hose wye at any hardware or garden center, even Wal Mart.
They look like the two at the top of this page:

Faucet manifolds, Hose wye, garden hose washers.

An RO or RO/DI should be mounted inside in a climate controlled area away from excessive heat or cold and out of direct sunlight. A washing machine cold water line is usually hose bib threads so is a good choice, especially if you have a laundry sink nearby. Other installation methods also work well such as an inline tee which fits on a kitchen or bathroom faucet water supply with no cutting or permanent damage. HD and Lowes have them for $5-$10 and they screw right on where the copper, plastic or stainless steel lines connect to the wall valve. The first one in this picture is an example of one.
http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=187&Sub=133

Actually I see Russ has the wyes in his pictures too.
 

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Here is my first Ro/DI unit and how it is mounted and color of hose to where it goes.


Black is supply
Blue is filtered final water product
yellow is waste

Its fed off the cold water supply for my washer just further down the line.

Mine has an ASO valve inline on the right
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Ok, thanx. If I do hook it up to my washer with a Y adapter, how do I hook up the tubes. Like in this photo below. See those gold adapters where the line is going in, where could I get those? They look like they are made special for RO tubbing. B/c I know you can't just stick the RO tubes in the y adapter, its way to big



Also, what would I do with the waste water? Is that hole in the middle in the pic below a drain? Or what?
And I don't plan on having a auto shut off valve right now, so how would I stop it, would i have to take it all down, b/c I wouldn't mind mounting the unit by my washer and dryer.

 

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Most RO/DI systems come standard with a hose bib adapter which screws on to the wye or hose bib. If not there are four of them pictured in the Buckeye link towards the bottom.

You only need one which feeds the cold water to the RO/DI unit, the waste line will go to the sink or drain or can be plumbed permanently with what is called a drain saddle. The permeate or treated water can either be stuck in a bucket or trash can or can be hooked up to something like a float valve or solenoid valve if your unit has an autoshutoff valve (ASOV) so you can automate the water making process like pictured here:
http://www.spectrapure.com/huds/ASO-SYS.pdf

Spectrapure has dozens of options on how to hook units up found here:
HOOK UP DIAGRAMS

Many are very detailed while some are real simple.
The feed valves and drain saddles can be found here:TANKS, FAUCETS, FITTINGS, HOUSINGS

In teh photo you posted the center is probably where the washing machine drain hose would go and that is where you would stick the waste line too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, thank you. Below is the link to the unit I ordered. It is the 4 stage 50gpd. Do you think it would include that adapter. I am also going to lowes tonight to get around 30g trash can for water changes and what not. I don't have enough money for a auto valve right now. lol. I know its only $20 but I'm 16 and am spending a lot right now, plus my dad doesn't like aquariums so he wont help as far as expenses.

If it doesn't come with one of those fittings what size do I need? That site as a couple, I wanna see if they have them at lowes. You think they will? What size should I get, or sizes, if they are cheap I might get 2 different sizes to be safe.


Aquarium Water Quality: Pure-Flo II RO Units

It also says it comes with this stuff, but would it come with anything else? Maybe those fittings?

4-stage RO unit includes faucet adapter, canister wrench, TFC membrane, carbon cartridge, 1-micron filter, mixed-bed resin deionization cartridge, and 3 clear cartridge canisters.
 

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If you look on the end of the yellow 1/4" tube it appears it comes with the adapter.
If its not too late you might conside rcancelling the Coralife and getting a much better unit for less money. The Coralifes are pretty low end and receive lots of complaints from poor construction to poor water quality and short component life.
Plus for $150+ you are only getting 50 GPD meaning more standing around waiting on water, don't get a TDS meter or pressure gauge both or which are almost absolute musts and lower quality filters.

Compare that one to the CSP-DI in the Spectrapure sales flyer on sale for $145 complete. By complete that means a 0.5 micron absolute rated prefilter, a 0.5 micron 20,000 gallon capacity carbon block, a batch tested and treated 90 GPD RO membrane, a refillable vertical DI with custom blended fresh DI resin not sitting on a shelf but usually mixed the very day it is built and shipped, a capillary tube type flow restrictor, a dual inline TDS meter, an inline pressure gauge and more. Much more unit for less money. With the Coralife you will need a TDS meter right away and should also get a pressure gauge too. Add those and now you have much more invested and still have a lower end RO/DI system.
Just a suggestion and possibly too late but it is worth doing if you plan to stay in this hobby and they won't be on sale for long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you look on the end of the yellow 1/4" tube it appears it comes with the adapter.
If its not too late you might conside rcancelling the Coralife and getting a much better unit for less money. The Coralifes are pretty low end and receive lots of complaints from poor construction to poor water quality and short component life.
Plus for $150+ you are only getting 50 GPD meaning more standing around waiting on water, don't get a TDS meter or pressure gauge both or which are almost absolute musts and lower quality filters.

Compare that one to the CSP-DI in the Spectrapure sales flyer on sale for $145 complete. By complete that means a 0.5 micron absolute rated prefilter, a 0.5 micron 20,000 gallon capacity carbon block, a batch tested and treated 90 GPD RO membrane, a refillable vertical DI with custom blended fresh DI resin not sitting on a shelf but usually mixed the very day it is built and shipped, a capillary tube type flow restrictor, a dual inline TDS meter, an inline pressure gauge and more. Much more unit for less money. With the Coralife you will need a TDS meter right away and should also get a pressure gauge too. Add those and now you have much more invested and still have a lower end RO/DI system.
Just a suggestion and possibly too late but it is worth doing if you plan to stay in this hobby and they won't be on sale for long.
Thnx. I just went to the site. Is this it?


CSPDI SYSTEM

looks like the cheapest one is $250. And yea I don't have a TDS meter or gauge yet

Also, the RO unit could be here tomorrow. I might keep it for a year or 2 then upgrade?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
HELP! Also, How could I prevent any leaks with the RO system. I CAN'T have any. And I will be dead meat. NO JOKE
 

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The CSP-DI is $145 here:
SpectraPure Customer Appreciation SALE! 20% - 50% off

No RO/DI should have any leaks if installed properly.

Get a TDS meter as soon as possible, it is the only way you will have any idea if the RO/DI is even working. At a minimum get the TDS-3 or TDS-4 from HM Digital. It is temperature compensated, has a 2% accuracy and gives you a digital temperature read out too which ias another tool you need to troubleshoot a RO/DI system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got it and tried to set it up. Do they have to break in, its been a hour, and its dripping water. But whenever I take out the membrane it shoots out. Is there a problem with my membrane? I have taken it out and put it back in several times. Please Help
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I got it and tried to set it up. Do they have to break in, its been a hour, and its dripping water. But whenever I take out the membrane it shoots out. Is there a problem with my membrane? I have taken it out and put it back in several times. Please Help

__________________
 

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Making RO is a slow process. Your unit makes 50 GPD at 65 psi and 77 degree water temperature. Thats best case. You probably do not have 65 psi available nor do most of us have 77 degree water so the production will be slower.
Pressure is easy to overcome with a RO booster pump, the increased pressure will offset colder water temps. Whatever you do, DO NOT try to warm the water by blending or tempering hot and cold! This is the fastest way to ruin an RO membrane there is.

If you know your water pressure and water temperature I can give you a vey close estimate of what you can expect for GPD.

The above is also why most of us choose the 75 or 90 GPD RO systems, they make water much faster so les waiting around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank You.
Yea, I have been looking at booster pumps like all day. lol
I am thinking about getting the aquatic 6800. Is that compatible with my Unit?
Yea I am positive I don't have 65psi, maybe not 40. Its well water, probably not good.
I am not on my mac, but when I get home I will post the link to the site of where I am thinking about getting the booster pump.
I just have it hooked up to my washers cold water supply with a Y fitting, idk what the exact temp. is but its probably like most people's cold water supply.
So with the aquatic 6800 what do you think my GPD would be?
I called the company they said they same as you, I probably need a pump and they also said it sometimes takes 3 weeks for the membrane to be fully hydrated.
 
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