I recently started up a 90 gallon tank. I ran it a couple of hours with freshwater and there were not any microbubbles i added some salt and now I have tons of microbubbles. I have tried just about everything. Can you please give me more ideas as to what I can do to eliminate these bubbles?
microbubbles
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Microbubbles are very common in a new system until it gets seasoned.
Can you describe your system, sump layout if any, equipment, plumbing arrangement and pumps?
Can you describe your system, sump layout if any, equipment, plumbing arrangement and pumps?
Joined
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234 Posts
They will probably go away once everything gets a slime coating on it.
It would help to know your system better though, you may have things that contribute to the problem like pump air leaks, improperly placed baffles or skimmers etc. Describe what you have.
It would help to know your system better though, you may have things that contribute to the problem like pump air leaks, improperly placed baffles or skimmers etc. Describe what you have.
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234 Posts
It appears this is the overflow line from the display down to the sump? If so your sump should have sufficient baffles to dissipate the bubbles before they reach the return pump chamber. Do you have over-under-over or under-over-under type baffles so the water must change directions and give up the bond with the bubbles so they travel to the surface and pop?
In the picture it appears the sump level is quite high, are you baffles high enough so they work as intended or are they all submerged? Do you have sufficient room in your sump to contain the backflow when the power goes off or if you shut the return pump off for feeding or maintenance? This can be critical.
Again a description of your plumbing, pump and sump arrangement would go a long way helping others troubleshoot your system. I am not a fan of filter socks, bags or foam/sponges of any sort and do not use any of them myself. They trap detritus and can cause more problems than they help if not kept clean. I hate anything that requires maintenance or attention, I want things as simple and troublefree as possible.
In the picture it appears the sump level is quite high, are you baffles high enough so they work as intended or are they all submerged? Do you have sufficient room in your sump to contain the backflow when the power goes off or if you shut the return pump off for feeding or maintenance? This can be critical.
Again a description of your plumbing, pump and sump arrangement would go a long way helping others troubleshoot your system. I am not a fan of filter socks, bags or foam/sponges of any sort and do not use any of them myself. They trap detritus and can cause more problems than they help if not kept clean. I hate anything that requires maintenance or attention, I want things as simple and troublefree as possible.
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234 Posts
A few pointers.
Remove the bioballs from between the baffles, they will cause problems soon. Bioballs are designed to be used exposed to air in a trickling type filter for a fish only system, not to be submerged in a reef system where they trap detritus and don't really contribute to denitrification since they are not porous and do not support anaerobic or anoxic bacterias.
What is the GPH rating of your return pump at whatever head you are pumping and what is the rating of your overflow? You will want to install a ball valve on the return pump so you can fine tune the return flow rate.
I have personally found the ribbed or corrugated type overflow hose contributes to microbubble problems due to its rough irregular interior surfaces. Smooth tubing or hose gives you a more laminar flow with little resistance or agitation.
Some ribbed hose is better than others but I never did like it.
Try installing the ball valve on the return or discharge side of the return pump and throttle the flow slightly, I'll bet a dollar to a donut you will find a flow rate that virtually eliminates the microbubbles. Over the next few weeks you can then slowly adjust the valve further open once the slime coat or seasoning of the system takes place. I don't know why this is but it works?
Remove the bioballs from between the baffles, they will cause problems soon. Bioballs are designed to be used exposed to air in a trickling type filter for a fish only system, not to be submerged in a reef system where they trap detritus and don't really contribute to denitrification since they are not porous and do not support anaerobic or anoxic bacterias.
What is the GPH rating of your return pump at whatever head you are pumping and what is the rating of your overflow? You will want to install a ball valve on the return pump so you can fine tune the return flow rate.
I have personally found the ribbed or corrugated type overflow hose contributes to microbubble problems due to its rough irregular interior surfaces. Smooth tubing or hose gives you a more laminar flow with little resistance or agitation.
Some ribbed hose is better than others but I never did like it.
Try installing the ball valve on the return or discharge side of the return pump and throttle the flow slightly, I'll bet a dollar to a donut you will find a flow rate that virtually eliminates the microbubbles. Over the next few weeks you can then slowly adjust the valve further open once the slime coat or seasoning of the system takes place. I don't know why this is but it works?
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