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Hello Tom! :)
what is the problem of mixing them? you mean you are afraid that they will fight?

If this is the case,I suggest that you put the new ones in an acclimation box,in the aquarium where yours GBR are.And see how they react with each others.I used to do like that when I want to introduce a new female to a male betta,because the male if he doesn't accept her,will kill her or worse she will kill him
 

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Hello Tom! :)
Oh okay! Yeah! and feed them with live food,many time per day,make water changes with a softer water and increase the temperature a bit
it will excite them to breed--> to form pairs
Keep us updated!!
 

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Discussion Starter #184
So still doing well with the 40 fry/juvi in the 33 long.They eat frozen blood worms and flake food with no issues.Started replacing their water with tap today and will add no more ro/di to their tank.
The California juvis and mine are doing great.Looks like possibly a couple pairs as small as they are already!Got to get more tanks running for them.
Had massive egg hatch and fry in last week with 2 pair holding clouds of 200+ free swimming fry, all gone by day 4 free swimming!
Do have aprox 10-20 fry (2weeks old) in the 30B doing well.Just pulled their parents from tank as they have been in the net traps.I wonder if their is a hormone from the parents?They(the parents) just got moved to completely clean20g.
Ordered a micro worm culture($7) which should arrive Monday.Hope these turn my survival rates around!
 

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Discussion Starter #185
Set up my 5 g tanks yesterday(made rack/stand) and got all 4 of them on bottom with room for 4 more above.
This am before work I got to move 3 pair with eggs into them!
Microworm culture arrived and I split it into 2 and should have some worms to harvest by tomorrow or atleast by the time any of the 3 sets of eggs hatch.
Hopefully I can get this working a little better?
 

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In microworms several small doses put on.
I have 4 pieces. (Plast doses 5x5x5cm of ice) with children Oatmeal, milk and yeast inoculated with the culture. After 2 days, the worms crawl up the wall. From there, remove with a small brush. This is about 4 days. Then no more crawling up. Now I make 2 new cans. So that it overlaps in time. The 4 small cans together in a plastic box on a warm setting (near heating). I have quite a few years. Good luck.
Maybe it benefits you something.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
The 4 small cans together in a plastic box on a warm setting (near heating). I have quite a few years. Good luck.
Maybe it benefits you something.
No light?
I wish I could add more pics but I'm full now.I have 3 of my 4 5g tanks with fry right now!I really hope the smaller tanks and the microworms make the difference!
I probly have around 80 juvis right now in my 55 and 33 tanks(2 litters a month apart aprox.)These guy look great but they represent less then 10% of the fry from eggs!
I am also adding tap to the fry on day 3 of free swimming.
Alot of changes all at once,but hopefully I'll figure out what works and doesn't(oh yea eggs in my 30g long just incase the 5's don't workout will not be moved).
Gots lots of fry and eggs ,just need a little help to get to a higher success level.
I have become obsessed!If I stuck to my original goal(in life and fishkeeping)to always put back more then I take then I could have quit the rams last year!
I really want to get this right!
 

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The box is translucent (clear plast). Space daylight, not separately.

With so many juveniles should more micro approaches inoculate.
The feed is small because found in the Great Basin?
 

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Grindal worms are a favorite of my fishes. Easy to culture. Also scuds. All you need is indian almond leaves and water. They will eat the leaves and will breed like crazy. I feed mine algae wafers once a week too which they seem to enjoy.
 

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Yep, I feed mine on Vinegar eels if they are tiny, then microworms, then baby brine shrimp, then grindals then on to frozen foods. Not sure of fry size with rams. But this is my feeding of betta splendens. My wilds can go straight to grindals and bbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #193
I did a little more research and found the vinnegar eels also.They look like what I need according to a discus site thread on GBR.
They are tiny Bev. BBS are almost bigger if not the smallest of hatch!
The microworms really do seem to work,but I may get into the vinnegar eels out of convience(way less work then micros) and the fact they are even smaller then micros.The fry are so small I'm sure size and live movement is what they need.
Eitherway all fry in 5g tank(3 sets) are really doing great.I do see them eat the micro worms and wonder if the tap water this early may help?
I am also keeping low powered lights on 24/7.
Fingers crossed BIG TIME that I am getting closer.
With better success I could generate around 1,000 a month right now!(I have to change a couple tanks{bye bye 75 reef and 75 swordtail tank!})but no big deal.
 

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Tom, if you would like, I know someone with some vinegar eels. I can talk to her and see if she can send some for shipping? They are very easy to culture, and I have some from her myself. Very prolific little culture.
 
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Discussion Starter #195
Tom, if you would like, I know someone with some vinegar eels. I can talk to her and see if she can send some for shipping? They are very easy to culture, and I have some from her myself. Very prolific little culture.
ALL ABOUT IT!
Thankyou so much BEV!
Pm on its way.
 

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Discussion Starter #196 (Edited)
OK I haven't started with the vinnegar eels ,but they are here(ramping up) and appear smaller then the micros.
The micros are making a HUGE difference in my fry survival and growth!
I have around 80-100 that are a month old,200 about 2 weeks old and a fresh 300 a couple days old with 4 pairs tending eggs or non free swimming fry fight now!Most info I have found and my experience is if they last longer then 2 weeks the majority left will survive!
The live food and small tanks(5g) are making this all work better.
I think I just need the next size up from BBS or micros for my juvis.Would this be grindals?The 1 month olds still eat the micro worms with frozen BBS and cyclops.The live food is sort of spoiling them and making the switch over to prepared food more diffacult,but I think I can work this out.If this is the final process I continue with I will end up getting 3-4 @5gallon tanks for each pair I breed.I am having good luck moving fry within the first 3 days free swimming,and have kept one group(in 3 different tanks)in the view of their parents,which seems to be working well?The fry and parents certainly do see each other so I think this helps alittle but not all fry will get this chance.
Definately have some ready to trade and am thinking of offering breeding pairs and even some of my adult pairs.The mix from CA and mine is going to be more then enough in short order.I have 4 pairs of mine and 4 pairs of the mixed breeding weekly(within every 10 days) right now!
Couple day old fry;

The breeding station;
 

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Nice!

Those little LED light strips, what kind are they and where did you get them? Am thinking of a few for my breeding rack.
 

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Discussion Starter #200
Nice!

Those little LED light strips, what kind are they and where did you get them? Am thinking of a few for my breeding rack.
those are current true lumen PROS.24v .
They're pricey even when on sale at petmountain or dfs.
I still have to try the reef bars that I recommended to woody for his reef.HE DIDN'T like them for reef,but for fw they are good lights.I use 12k and mixed,but they offer 8k(I got all mine for marine also).The reef bars are less then 1/2 the currents price making them affordable.

I am trying to consider a real breeding station and wonder if there are any disadvantages to plastic bins over real glass?I will post a thread on this specifically.
 
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