Aquarium Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,
This is my first post since becoming a member so please bear with me.
I started up a small 22 gal. aquarium about 2 months ago for a friend and it is populated with mostly characins. After introducing 5 rummynose tetras about a week ago several of the rummynose are now showing signs of either the beginnings of ich or possible fungal infection. One or two spots on the dorsal fin as well as the base of the dorsal fins are now visible. Normally I would treat the tank and occupants with a copper citrate solution for 3 to 5 weeks. However, I have heard that many characins do not tolerate copper very well. If so...what other medications or treatments are available that are "characin" friendly and work.
 

·
Catch and Release
Joined
·
263 Posts
First, if possible, quarenteen the infected because the only thing you need is to get the others sick. I'm not that great when it comes to meds. If you go and ask someone who specializes in fish at a pet store, they should be able to tell you what to use. I wish I could be more help, but this isn't exactly what I'm good at.
One trick that I've learned is to turn up the tank temp, when you put meds in. Meds won't kill the eggs, only the adult free swimming versions. Higher temps speed up the life cycle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,048 Posts
you can isolate the fish with ick in a seperate tank..you can get a 2.5 gal real cheap with a box filter and air pump. use the exsisting tank water. and treat the fish. Or you can add aquarium salt to the tank. It is seid to treat ick outbreak. By just turning up the temp. and not adding treatment you are just increasing the ick cells quicker. Whne you traet them trun up the temp to 82 slowly. I Don't know what fish you have so I can only make a general statement but you genreally half dose copper sensetive fish. Reasd the bottle of your meds they will tell you if it safe or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for replying.
These are the fishes that occupy my friends tank. They are:
1 serpae tetra. 10 neon t. 10 gold stripe tet. 4 red eye tet. 5 black skirt tet. 4 rubbynose tet. 2 black and gold pigmy angels. 2 blue gour., 1 pearl gour. 2 panda.. something... bottom feeders. several cambomba plants.
Filtration...double air lift tube undergravel. 2-3/4" to 3" deep 1/8" to 1/4" diam. smooth round river rock substate. 45 lbs. lava base rock. customized 400gph piggy back filter. 2-15 watt fluor. lights. 1- 40 watt heater.

Nothing special...just a simple "beginners" tank I set up for my friend and his wife to enjoy.
I have several small tanks I can set up as a quarantine tank. The 4 rubbynose tetras had to be acclaimated from soft water to tap water which here in San Diego, CA. contains moderate levels of calcium and magnesium salts. Though, the acclaimation process would have been better if taking place over 24 hours...due to time constraints...they got 2 hours of 1/2 cup aquarium water added to the shipping bag water every ten minutes for 2 hours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,048 Posts
I see no fish I would be overly conserned on that list.... QT the ick infested fish , slowly raise the the temp to 82 degree F, add add stone and pump and meds. per bottle instructions. So check on the angel you have, I never housed them. I woild watch the neon as they have a very weak gene pool which mean they die quite easy. If you looking to protect the main tank againest the another out breaK as the parasite is now for sure in the tank you may want to look into a UV light. Not sure what a piggy back filter is maybe a term your using to mean Hang on Back (HOB) filter. If that the case you would have to get a rio pump and some tubbing on fitting to install a UV Light. I run UV on all my big tanks. You size UV light by GPH (gallons per hour) flow rate will tell you how to match it up with your pump or filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
No...no high dollar fish.

I absolutely swear by U.V.'s also except for reef tanks. As a matter of fact I have a couple U.V.'s left over after upgrading my accounts older Aquanetics UV's with new Emperor Aquatics models. However, one's a 60 watt UV the other is a 90 watt unit. Although, either one can be used as a single bulb 30 watt unit.

Thank you for reminding me that I had them!

I am sure his wife won't be real pleased since either U.V is about 6 inches longer then the tank and therefore going to be noticed. Eh...she'll get over it. Unless she wants start paying for fish. he he.

I wonder if it might be easier just to let the infected fish swim a couple of passes thru the U.V...I'm joking but I'm sure it's been tried lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,048 Posts
Will actually that won't work.... because when it attached to the fish the parasite is more than one cell, after it falls off and divids in single cell spours than the UV's can serilize them the single cell so it can't reporduce. Also UV's polish your water to make it clearer, just a little added bonus....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Yes I know...I just had the image in my head of someone trying such a thing...the look on the persons face after seeing the poor fish emerging out the discharge a few shades lighter and sort of swimming in small circles...just made me laugh. In a sic sort of way.
Plus...if you really crank up the U.V. and run air thru it instead of water they can be used to generate ozone. Nothing like ozone to finally obtain that longterm goal of an ORP reading above 600...lol
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top