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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I have a 20g as you can see in my signature. I have 2 rainbow sharks that are going to outgrow this tank and will be upgrading to a larger tank at some point. My concern is that my hob filters will not be enough for a tank of about 55 gallons. So, obviously I don't want to spend a ton of money on a new filter, but also don't want to get a used one either. Never know what's been in someone else's tank. Which canister filter is going to be relatively inexpensive but also do a good job filtering? Also, is the media that comes with these sufficient? I saw a video of a guy who replaced the included media with foam and other types of bio media. Thanks for your input!
 

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....has no life....
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For a 55g canister I would go with a Eheim 2217. The media that they come with is arguably some of the best on the market, but still you can try different setups with it. I have seen them with all bio balls and the instructions talk of an all filter pad option. Just depends if you want to keep it for mechanical and bio filtering or just go with bio. I use my 2217 on a 29g (a tad much) and have it setup using the media/pads provided.

You can use your HOBs with the canister also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks jr; I'm looking for a way to replace the hobs..they look ugly :) so how do I go about seeding the canister with my established colony?
 

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The easiest way is to just run all filters on the tanks for about 2wks. The other is to remove the media from your HOBs and put in the canister.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Canister filters all do pretty much the same thing right? Is there any reason to choose the eheim over the Marineland or fluval? Especially if there is a substantial price difference?
 

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Ya I would run both for a while, this just insures the canister is well seeded. I know a lot of people here are going to recommend ehiem. And rightfully so! But if o have a multiple fluval canisters and I am ver happy with them. Got them new on eBay cheap.
 

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The biggest difference I have heard most speak of is actual capacity of the filter.How much stuff you can have in it.
That being said and going back to another thread ;all filters are circulators and do hold the majority of beneficial bacteria,BUT for the most part exceptional aquarium keeping is achieved with water changes regardless of filter.
So any "efficient" filter and "ample" water changes should do you just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok so I got the marineland C220 canister. It's made for up to 55gallons. Pretty nice setup. Very quiet with the exception of the ceramic rings in one of the trays rattling around. Wonder how I could silence those. Some suggested a media/filter bag. Considering moving the ceramic to the bottom of the canister to see if it quiets down. For some reason they have them in the top tray. Seems like the water would be pretty turbulent up there. Also, if the idea is for the rings to take large particulates out, wouldn't it make more sense to have them at the bottom?
 

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I'm not sure it would make a whole lot of difference. Its all a closed system. But you could put it in a bag. Or you can add a "cut to fit" filter floss. However if they say keep it at the top there's probably a reason. But as bandit said filters don't make the amazing difference most people think. But a good filter does help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've figured out, at this point, that its the impeller. There's a slight defect in the top of the unit where the impeller spins. Just a slight imperfection in the molding process that is rubbing ever so slightly on the impeller. Maybe after a few hundred hours of use it will wear down that imperfection and stop the noise. Anyways, I'm happy. Got a new external filter, it's seeding, and as much as I used to love the sound of the water in my tank, that has worn off and it too will be gone. No more humming of the HOB. Next step is a 55 gallon so my rainbow sharks can grow comfortably and more room so I can finally give my schooling fish the numbers they prefer.
 

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I think you should have gone bigger. The filter barely being rated for that tank may not be the best thing. Generally twice the capacity or 4-5 times water turnover is the target. If you are combining with other filters you should be okay. If not, you will have to pay closer attention to stocking and water changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Aqadvisor says for 55g it's more than enough. I do plan to keep my air driven sponge as well. Plan is to keep the fish I have and add 5 more neons, 3 more glo tetras, and maybe 2 or 3 Schwartz cories. Even so, aw advisor says I would be 60% stocked, and well over 100% filtration. Do you disagree? I mean, that's turning the tank over 4 times and hour in a perfect world.
 

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its always nice to have a filter rated for twice the tank volume, or 5-10 times the gph of the volume of the tanks

so for a 55g, i would say between 250 and 500 gph.

the 220 will still work but its nice to have the extra volume as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So as far as seeding, once the canister has run for a couple weeks and can be assumed as seeded, it's just as easy as transferring the canister (and HOB) to the new tank with already dechlor'd water isn't it? I plan to clean the tank once I get it, because its coming to me as freshly used. Found a guy who's getting rid of his 55g plus stand for $120. Anything else I should be aware of when transferring my fish and filters to the new tank? I do plan to run the new tank without fish for a few days and check the water chems to be sure it doesn't swing into a wild cycle or anything.

My transfer checklist:
Tank cleaned and well rinsed (no detergents)
Water dechlorinated and same as 20g tank temp
Substrate washed and in place , as well as deco
Filters (already seeded) in place
Water chems stable, no re-cycling

Thanks for any input
 

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I wouldn't "wash" your substrate. It holds as much if not more BB than the filter. When you move the gravel and fill the tank it will rinse it self in the new water and make its way back to the substrate and filter. But I wouldn't clean it at all. And if the "new" tank just had water in it just rinse it out well and wipe it good with a clean rag. Then if you want you can transfer some of the water from the current tank to the new one. This can help cut down on bad water chem to start. Your moving stable water. Then its almost a large WC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sounds like a plan. Now let me ask you this: the new (used) aquarium has some scratches in the glass. I'm not comfortable buffing them out with so much water weight in the tank and the back has been painted black, which im not upset about. I've heard it weakens the glass, and I'm given to understand 55g weighs about 550 pounds or so. So my question now is what about auto glass repair/sealer? If used, once it dries, do you think it would leach anything into the water over time? You know the stuff, the same stuff used to seal divots in windshields and stuff.
 

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I would either live with the scratch or not use the tank. Don't transfer old water to the new tank. This does nothing but "transfer old water to a new tank." Only then would it be like a big water change. You only need to match the temp and if that takes two hours then the tank would be ready after that. If you have been using tap water all along it is the same water and you should not have any water problems, unless you have them now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Scratch problem has been resolved! Not sure if any of you are "friends of Bill W., but I am and have another who just offered me his 55g, stand, decos, and gravel for $50! The fish gods are smiling on me. New water, no problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey all,

I was doing some reading on the ol' interweb, because my canister is always getting air into the filter. I've ensured that all of my seals are not only tight, but the o rings are always lubricated, my bubble wand is far enough away from the intake so that no bubbles get into the intake tube, etc. so my question has to do with cavitation.

I found this: 7. Cavitation is the phenomenon of air or gas bubbles being forced or sheared from the water itself by a stagnating impeller or other drive device. There are always gases dissolved in water in open contact with the air. When a simple flow pump is intake-starved, the moving (without being able to normally move water) impeller causes bubbling. The type of pumps we use in most of our filters can have the output restricted to some degree by head pressure or by valving down, but should never be intake-restricted. Cavitation as a symptom should not be ignored. Damage to the drive may occur.

So I'm wondering if I should look for a bigger intake tube. With all the water movement I have going on I'm sure my O2 content is high, and it seems like my canister may be creating negative pressure resulting in the gases being pulled from the water and accumulating in the canister.

Thoughts?
 

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Hey all,

I was doing some reading on the ol' interweb, because my canister is always getting air into the filter. I've ensured that all of my seals are not only tight, but the o rings are always lubricated, my bubble wand is far enough away from the intake so that no bubbles get into the intake tube, etc. so my question has to do with cavitation.

I found this: 7. Cavitation is the phenomenon of air or gas bubbles being forced or sheared from the water itself by a stagnating impeller or other drive device. There are always gases dissolved in water in open contact with the air. When a simple flow pump is intake-starved, the moving (without being able to normally move water) impeller causes bubbling. The type of pumps we use in most of our filters can have the output restricted to some degree by head pressure or by valving down, but should never be intake-restricted. Cavitation as a symptom should not be ignored. Damage to the drive may occur.

So I'm wondering if I should look for a bigger intake tube. With all the water movement I have going on I'm sure my O2 content is high, and it seems like my canister may be creating negative pressure resulting in the gases being pulled from the water and accumulating in the canister.

Thoughts?

I've had this problem time and again with Marineland canisters. Ensuring that it was completely filled with water after every water change helped me get around some of the annoyance from it, but not much.

What do you mean by "larger intake tube"? Are you talking about the plastic piece itself that draws the water from the tank, or a larger diameter tube that connects to the canister itself? I'm not sure how having a larger diameter hose would work, because you'd still have to restrict the diameter down for it to connect back to the nozzle on the canister...
 
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