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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so I set up my 80 gallon bow and added 10 cardinal tetras for cycling. About 3 days after I got them, I noticed signs of ick on one of them. It was only two white spots so I wasn't 100% positive at first, but after 2 more days I noticed it on a couple other fish. I went out and purchased Jungle Ick Clear. I cut the treatment in half since they are tetras and kind of small. I treated it, waited 48 hours, did a 25% water change, and treated again. Now it's been another 48 hours and if anything it's worse. They are not behaving strangely and they are eating just fine. Ammonia and nitrite are still at zero. Water temp ranges from 78 to 82, depending on if it's day or night. How many times do I need to do the treatment? Is Jungle a good brand to use for getting rid of ick? I would welcome any and all suggestions. I haven't lost any fish yet and I really don't want to. Thanks!
 

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This is what I've done in the past:

1- Raise the temperature. Maintain temps of 82-84 F. Keep the temperature raised for 10 days, or until all signs of ich have been gone for 3 days, whichever is longer. Remember that warm water holds less oxygen than cool water. Make sure you have good surface agitation.

2- Add Aquarium Salt. About 2 Tablespoons per 5 gallons of water. Increase the salinity slowly over a few days. Disolve the salt in water before adding it to the tank. Again, 10 days, or until all signs of ich have been gone for 3 days, whichever is longer.

3- It is also helpful to vacuum the gravel to remove any tomonts that may be present.

This process has always worked for me in the past. I've never used any medications for ich. Supposedly there are strains of the disease that are resistant to heat and salt, but I've never encountered it.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is it safe to use aquarium salt in a planted tank? The guy at the LFS said that I shouldn't. I use it in my 10 gallon planted tank and the plants seem to be just fine.
 

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fishboydanny
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just a comment: I never treat for ick..... it only seems to effect 1 or 2 of my fish, so I let it go..... always the livebearers!!! If the fish is generally healthy, it will usually fisht it off itself, bu if he is not..... oh well, just another weak fish for ya.....

tetras, though, I'm not sure. I just wanted to share....... I heard a salt dip will usually cure the fish, but it may become infected again if there is still ick in the tank.... chemicals con only kill the free living stage of ich, not what is already on the fish, so good luck...... i say try what roc said.......
 
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Discussion Starter #5
That is good to know. This is my first bout with ick so it helps to hear what other people do who have dealt with it before. I will be adding aquarium salt and crossing my fingers. I know it's part of the territory, but I really do hate losing fish.
 

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If you can afford a UV for the tank, after the outbreak is cycled thur, with or without meds... you can control ick...UV don't kill Ick but ick is single cell so it will sterilize them.... you will always have ick in a tank and usually only have an out break if the WQ goes down or the fish become stressed. I use meds to treat any outbreaks I've had.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What specific meds do you use to treat ick? Is one better than another? Also, how long does it take for the white spots to disappear off the fish?
 

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Ick is never really gone unless you use a UV... the life cycle of ick is a parasite.... it lives on the house and drop single cells thpugh out hte tank and they are invisible to the naked eye so they will live in the gravel until WQ goes down or the immune system of the fish drops because fo stress....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, now I have a problem. I thought the ick was gone so I added 4 yoyo loaches and 2 German blue rams. I got them 4 days ago. I was just watching them and noticed about 2 or 3 white spots on each of the rams. A couple of the loaches also have a couple spots. I know it could be worse, but now I'm not sure how to treat. I've heard rams are sensitive to medications, so what would be the best way to treat? Ammonia is zero, nitrite is zero, nitrate is 5 ppm. Temp is 82 degrees and all fish are eating great and acting normal. I did a water change 3 days ago and am adding aquarium salt. Thanks :p
 

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For sensitve fish the Meds that you selected should say something about using 1/2 the amount for twices as long. watch the loachies as they are generally more senstive to Meds than most fish because form what i read and seen they don't have scales. If your getting ICK everytime you buy new fish than my guess is the LFS has an ICK problem, you should maybe let them know that your getting it everytime, but only if you have a relationship with the store. Most LSF store can be sensetive to complaints, or just find another store.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got the tetras first and that was from Petsmart. I got the yoyos and rams at a LFS. They told me they quarantine all new fish for 14 days before selling them to the public. I must say that that particular place has the cleanest tanks I've seen compared to other LFS's as well as healthier looking fish. Maybe I didn't get rid of the ick completely...I don't know. I guess my question lies in exactly how to treat. For example, how often do I medicate and for how long. Every other day for two weeks, for example? And do I need to do a WC before every treatment? This is my first bout with ick so I'm unsure as to the specifics. The treatment that I purchased (Jungle brand) said that one treatment is enough, but I'd much rather have experienced aquarists tell me what they do.
 

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Will than if you treat the tank a second time a WC is required.... also did you remove the carbon from the filter. You have to remove it any time you treat a tank, or it will absorb the meds. You may want to consider puttting together a QT tank of your own than.

I'm not going to say that the store dosn't really QT the fish for 14 days, as most LSF do not. they do not have the space and money it takes to house and feed the fish. I know alot of LSF owners all are knowledgable in the hobby most have been in bussiness for many years and because of the overhead in the bussiness and you are dealing with a live animal most do not chance QT the new stock for more than a day or two. Really good store with use box filters in there tanks as to prevent a outbreak of ick and other problems from getting into all the tanks. However the importers I know they will QT there fish for a week, treat with meds and depending on the fish feed live food to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I do not have carbon in my filters. I'm running two Eheim Ecco 2234 canisters and when I started them up, I elected to not use the carbon. Do I need to do a WC every time I treat, that is, if I need to treat more than once?
 

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I use rock salt , unstead of aquarium salt. very few distributors quarantine fish unless saltwater. the man was right about the plants, salt will kill them, be careful about how much salt. No one I know uses jungle anything. Get a different brand, IN my opinion. The loaches are really susceptable to the meds, so be careful.
If you are doing wc after every 24 hours, are you adding tap water or water you have in a holding tank, that has been treated for clorine and floride?
The rock salt is stronger than aquarium salt, do u have a salinity tester? test the water after you put the salt in, it should be?
I would take the plants out into another container and treat with the ick meds, and treat the tank with salt, and the meds, doing the water changes I would make sure to have treated water setting for at least 24 hours circulating. Just trying to help.Tim Raised temp. increases everything too keep a close eye on the temp too. :cool:
 

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the rock salt is a more constrated kind of salt Ive used it for 21 years you can get is at your local grocery store, morton makes a brand too, just say u are going to make Ice cream they will know what kind of salt to lead you too, uniodized, it will just say rock salt and comes in a box or bag. I just checked my tanks which always have two large spoonfulls heaping, tablespoons the large ones in each tank and I never have any problem at all, I have overcrowded some tanks at times and overfed at times with not disease even introducing cat fish and algae eaters from pet shops too. two per 10 gallons. when you make a wc you will need to figure out 10 gallons equals two heaping teaspoons of rock salt. the aquarium salt requires alot more and is more costly. If you have an 80 gallon tank then 16 heaping large spoon fulls of rocksalt. with the meds and plants taken out you should raise temp. like they said. after 3 to 5 days wala!!! do try to keep water for wc in a container somewhere and ariated (I like amquel for removing all the bad stuff out of the waiting water, one teaspoon per 10 gal of amquel, let set 24 hours) I use a 32 gallon trash can with bubblers in it. I have 6 to 700 fish at the moment. If this does not work please let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have elected to not use meds because of the loaches. I live in Arizona, so keeping the water temp at 82 or above is definitely not a problem and I am using salt. I am doing a WC every 3 to 5 days. I use a 32 gallon garbage can as well. I prepare the water the day before and add Prime and aquarium salt. I don't aerate the water in the garbage can. I do not have a salinity test. I am in the process of purchasing a UV sterilizer, just need to find an in-line one that's compatible with the Eheim I'm running. I was going to get a Turbo Twist, but my hose diameter won't work with it. Wow, taking out all the plants would be quite a chore. I have a LOT of them and I have nowhere to put them. Yikes. The fish are doing very well, although they have a couple/few white spots. They are not acting erratically, flashing, and they're eating very heartily, especially the yoyos. I am just hoping that the temperature/salt treatment will be enough.

Oh and here's a good one. Went to Petsmart and asked the girl working in the fish dept. where their UV sterilizers were. She said, "What are those?" And yes, she says she has aquariums at home. Probably shouldn't ask where the protein skimmers are either, not that I need one LOL. ;)
 

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I think rockhound was doing just fine with you? I just jumped in, (sometimes it is easier to see something from the side lines). Can you get another trash can? maybe the plants could go in there. just for a week or two, with the light also of course.
The people are of varing experience everywhere as you have found out, I have a sis and mom that live in arizona right now. I am good with fresh water guppies and have had alot of experience with a few of the other fish also.
I think If I was you I would run air to the holding tank or a supmersful pump, just a small one will do , I have one with a two inch by two and a half sup-pump very small , it does the trick, and the other holding tank has a six inch bubbler, rock. It really helps the water to get rid of the bad stuff, I used to use prime, just a preference, or opinion, the amquel seems to have a slight slime after about a week very slight , which I like especially for the new fish.
But I was happy with the prime till the price went up, way above the amquel, and I am happy with the amquel too.
This is none of my business but , have you ever ordered fish from online, or from breeders, you might like to check this out.
Let us know what happens and how you went about it , It always helps everyone.
:D
 
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