This should be a really easy set up to pull off in style.
The recipe...
1. AqualClear 50 (minimum) or 70 (much better)
Any equivelent will do just fine. I like these for a few reasons
a. They are bullet proof as they get for a filter and very reliable.
b. You can adjust the flow for some fine tuning a little bit if needed.
c. Very flexible filter that will allow you to run a variety of media in them.
d. Should it break and they rarely do, many of the parts can be replaced fairly easily.
2. You will need a 50 watt heater.
Unless you live someplace where it gets really cold this should be suffcient. No foul in going to the next size up though. Remeber 2 smaller ones are better than one big one in the event one should malfuction you should be able to catch it before you really have a problem.
3. 20 lbs of sand
This should give you close to 2 inches. If you want more get more. Dont use play box sand! Use calcium based sand. I dont recommend any thing as course as Crushed Coral or courser.
4. 20-30 lbs of Live Rock.
This will easily be the most expensive part of the tank. You can cutr corners and keep cost down by getting some sun dried rock from some place like www.macrorocks.com or another retailer and then add 10 lbs or so of quality live rock with coralline algae on it and you wont know the difference 6 months down the road. The sun dried rock will quickly colonize with beneficial bacteria and become live in a week or so. Coralline algae spores from the live rock will innoculate the roack and soon pretty purpple corallione will start growing on it. Live rock is really crucial. Its part of the biological fisltration of your tank. The lighter and the mopre porous it is the better and the less pounds you need. 20 lbs of Mashall Island or Pukani would be excellent. If using Fiji you will likely want about 25-30 lbs. If using Carribean/Florida rock or Tonga Branch then you will want about 40 lbs as a target weight. If you can get that much in there and still have room left put what you can. You can add a little now and then add a little more a couple weeks later as your budget allows.
5. Light
You can do fine on the standard flo. fixture that comes with it if you use a 50/50 SW bulb in it. However it would be prudent to use something a little more suitable suuch as the Nova Extreme T-5 HO light fixture with one actinic bulb and one daylight bulb. This is a fairly inexpensive fixture running about 50-60 bucks on line delivered. Later should you get cocky and decide to do some easy corals such as Mushrooms, Ricordia, Zoanthids or a number of others you wont have to upgrade your lighting. While you dont have corals you do have live rock and it will do much better under this improved lighting than it would under the cheesy AGA type lights that usually come with tanks. Your fish will look much more vivid under it and it will do the coralline algae on your live rock a lot of good too.
6. Misc.
a. Thermometer, pretty self explanitory.
b. Something to measure the salt level. The swing arm ones are pretty cheap and usually get the job done if cleaned after each use and the water is at 78 degrees. It however isnt nearly as precise as a Refractomerter. Your doing fish so I wouldnt invest that kinda money at this point.
c. Power head. This will be needed to mix the saltwater.
d. 1 five gallon bucket to mix salt water in.
e. 5-7 gallon jug for fresh water.
f. Net, again pretty self explainitory.
g. Test Kit, as a minimum you will need to test PH, Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates
h. Salt Mix. Doesnt matter which one, as 90% are made by the same out fit to nearly the same level of minerals and what not. Do avoid the cheap off brands. You do not need anything like Reef Crystals as the added price and Calcium content will be of little use to you as you have no corals.
* parameter in water to shoot for...
PH 8.2-8.4
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 20 max!
SG 1.019-1.026
Temp 74-78 deg.
7. You will need a clean up crew as well to add to the tank right after the cycle is completed. I would suggest a varity of Clean Up type critters as opposed to just 2. If using Scralet Reef Hermits, I would suggest about 4. If using the much smaller and cheaper Dwarf Blue Legs which I presonally prefer then you need about 20 of them. A mix of each ould be acceptable though. For snails....not all snails are created equal. Some prefer to do glass and rocks and some prefer the sand bed. I would suggest about a dozen Astrea or Banded Trochus or Margarita Snails. I would also suggest if you have a finer grade of sand for substrate that you get about a dozen Cerith or Nassarious snails or combo of the two. Turbos are good too and you will only need a couple if you choose these instead of the Astreas/Banded Trochus or Margarita snails. I dont care for turbos unless I have a large tank as they have a tendency to knock small things over and bulll dozer through things. Thier large size prevents them from reaching the little nooks and crannies where deteris will first accumulate and you will start seeing some algae crop up in thise areas quicker.
Fish!
There are about a couple of dozen that would work well in your tank. You will be limited depending on the fish to 1-5 fish depending on how small they are. 1 Big one
figuratively speaking or 5 very tiny ones. An example would be 1 Angler/Frog Fish (smaller species of course). Another would be a couple of False or True Perculas. Another would be 1 Royal Gama, 1 Flase Perculas and 1 Yellow Watchman Goby or a simular combination. Unlike a FW tank full of Guppies, you cant stock a SW tank to the same level! Any fish over 3 inches is a no go with the exception of a smaller species of Frog Fish or Dwarf Fuzzy Lion Fish. While these two can get to about 5 inches in length they are very sedate fish that dont swim much and dont require much swimming room. Both being preditors though, you will need a good filtration system and they dont play well with others. So any other fish is out of the question and any decorative shrimp in the tank are "on the menu" so to speak. Both are however very interesting and excellent display fish. I would recommend against any damsel fish other than Clown Fish or Chromis. Many look cute and colorful, but as they grow they often loose the bright colors to a degree or another and become territorial and bellegrant all out of proportion to thier size! A 20 gallon tank is too small for Tangs or Dwarf Angels as well. The only starfish I would recommend are the Serpent or much better yet a Brittle Star. Serpents when large have been known to ambush and eat sleeping fish at night. Octopus's and Cuttle Fish are also not recommended although they can be in tanks like this. They are short lived and sensitive and more for the advanced reefer.
I am sure I left out some details but feel free to ask more questions, and please do lots of research before the first purchase is made.