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Discussion Starter #1
Recently I noticed that decorations and some plans in my 6Gal fish tank are covered with dark green algae.
It's not growing like any other algae, it's more like a paint neon green color. It covers mostly the limestone, air stone and some leafs of life plants.
Later this afternoon I will try to post some pictures.

Tank- 6 Gal
pH- 6.3
T- 78-80F
NH3 - 0

Any idea how can I clean that, will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
 

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The decorations can be removed from the tank and soaked in hot water with about 1/4 cup of salt per gallon. After soaking for 30 minutes insert them in cold water to rinse the salt off. You should be able to rinse them clean or wipe them off with a scrub brush.

Don't do this with the plants. Normally on a larger tank I would subbest adding some Otocinclus catfish but since you said it's a 6 gallon tank I am assuming you are near the top of your stocking already. You can try to gently rub them with your fingers to get the algae off.

Stepping up the water changes (maybe 50% every other day) should also help. Also, reduce the amount that you are feeding the fish. Less uneaten food and fish waste results in less algae.

Also, how much lighting do you have in the tank (watts and hours per day). Is it near a window that gets sunlight? Limiting the amount of light "may" help reduce algae growth.
 

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I have that happen, I researched it, and boiling them in water works. thats what i do atleast, although my plants are plastic, but the boiling water does not melt them at all:) good luck bro!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks all for your advice.
Light is standard 15W build in the cover.
Light is on for about 14 hours a day.
No natural light, fish tank is far from window.

I have fancy guppy (3) and one Upside down catfish.
I had Apple Snail, but they die for some reason. Stayed around 1 or 1.5 month and then in morning I found them dead.
So I stop the snail idea. All tho I do have one (don't know the name) small dark brown snail, this one has no problems for 5 month.

 

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So are you guys saying that the light from the light bulb on your tank creates algae??
Like any plant, algae needs light and nutrients to grow. The light bulb on your tank provides enough light for algae growth. The more nutrients (fish waste, uneaten food, peanut butter sandwiches your kid discarded, etc) and light the tank receives the more algae you'll get. Usually, if you have the light on for more than 10-12 hours a day you'll get algae growth.

To reduce algae growth you either need to reduce light and nutrients or find another way to use up the nutrients in the water. Adding lots of plants of different varieties to out compete algae for nutrients can be very helpful.
 

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Reefer, Plants and Ponds
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Like any plant, algae needs light and nutrients to grow. The light bulb on your tank provides enough light for algae growth. The more nutrients (fish waste, uneaten food, peanut butter sandwiches your kid discarded, etc) and light the tank receives the more algae you'll get. Usually, if you have the light on for more than 10-12 hours a day you'll get algae growth.

To reduce algae growth you either need to reduce light and nutrients or find another way to use up the nutrients in the water. Adding lots of plants of different varieties to out compete algae for nutrients can be very helpful.
It's those pesky peanut butter sandwiches which bedevil even the most advanced aquarist!:D
 

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Run you light s for 8 to 10 hours for live plants...... Test your water and make sure you do a weekly WC of 20%... in a very small tank weekly WC's are must important job we have a fish caregivers, and the tank should never go more than a day or two past a week. This will keep you water quaility and fish health problem free.
 

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Sorry, but green algae isn't caused by overfeeding. However, it doesn't help. Overfeeding causes a flimsy algae that is easily removed.

You must be getting light from somewhere. You shouldn't have that much trouble from artificial light. Do you ever leave your window open, letting light into the room.

An oto should clean up the problem, and prevent any algae in the future. They stay small, so you should have a problem with being overstocked.
 

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It wasn't the PB sandwhich in my SW tank, but the box of cheerios my then three year old daughter fed the fish. What a mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hello and Thank you for all your help!

Dave (roc-aquarium) I will definitely reduce the amount of light, I even purchased a timer, so I will set it 8hrs a day, and will see.
Feeding my fish is pain, guppys they are playing with flakes, at least I see it that way. They maybe eating but very little, at the end Upside down Catfish finish it all :)
I like the idea about peanut butter sandwiches ;) although I don't get that. Kids don't bring food near fish tank (at least)

Richie (djrichie) I do WC 20% every Friday, but by Thursday pH drops to 5.9-6.1. After WC it goes up to 6.9-7.0.
I can't wait to move out from this place.
And then eventually will get bigger tank.

Thanks Again.
 

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With the PH dropping like that, It causes me to wonder. Generally, you discribing what happen when the levels get to high. If you do not have a complete freshwater testing kit, you should get one.... they are alot cheaper online but them you have to pay for shipping. Test your water completely before doing the WC's and post those reading please
 

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Good start. I am glad we addressed the light issue. Keep your light at 8-10hr max. Overfeeding CAN cause algae problems becuase it adds more nutrients to the water. If it is not used by your live plants it will be used by the algae.;)

There are 2 possible reasons for your drop in pH. If you are pumping CO2 into your tank you will get a drop in pH which may go back up every time you add tap water depending on the pH of the tap water. Or more likely since you have a 6g tank :) your tap water is soft and not very well "buffered". You can get it checked for kH (carbonate hardness) and GH (general hardness). If it turns our they are pretty low (1-3) you can raise it some and get to an ideal pH for your particular fish by adding a combination of acid and akaline buffer. This combo will keep the pH from fluctuating much, and a small bit could be added with each water change to keep it set. I highly recommend Seachem's acid and akaline buffer.

In my 20g tank I add 1/8tsp acid and 3/8tsp akaline with every 5g water change and this gives you a pH of about 6.8-7.0. Hope this helps some.
 

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To raise your KH, you don't need to buy seachem (I do like seachem products and use the one I need) or any product for that matter. Common Baking Soda will do the trick. Just a word of caution when adding anything to mess with the water chem... Do it in a bucket first where there is no chance of killing your fish or messing it up so bad you have to start all over in the tank. Baking soda will cause your PH to raise quickly, so add just a tiny (a 1/2 table spoon in a 55 causes the KH to raise one degree) bit at a time and then want a minute and then test your KH.... Just should be able to get a KH Test Kit at any chain store or LFS. They should be under 20.00 in a store. Adjusting KH is something you need to do from my experience every 2nd WC..... But you should test it during your weekly WC.

Also, there is a 3rd cuase of PH drop that was missed. Diftwood (DW). DW leach tanins into the water. and thise Tanins will cause the PH to drop slowly as they build up. We are talking about a 6 gal tank so they could eaisly build up quickly if it a new peace of DW.
 

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Eagle, Oto Cats will eat the brown algea and normal green algea and are very good to have in any peaceful tank. They work 23 hours a day cleaning. They are however sensetive to poor WC, not that they will die instantly but they are medium in the hardiness area of fish. When buy otos you need to look at there belly's and see that they are not thin,they should be round,if they are thin don't buy, they have an bactria in there stomachs that breaks down the algea and when they are starved that will die. Meaning the fish can eat but will not get any nutriants, and will be dieing in a few days.
 
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