Looks good. Not sure you need 35 gold fish to cycle though! So what kind of fish do you plan on getting?
Sumps are not good for planted tanks. They have more surface interaction (trickle) and this removes CO2. Something to keep in mind if you were considering plants. Great for aeration though.
All the extra HOBs are probably not needed since you are using coarse and fine filters on the right. You definately don't need airstones. I would spend the money on a UV sterilizer perhaps? You can add media directly into the sump in filter bags: like Purigen, or carbon, or peat, or ceramic (bacteria),....etc.
Also for algae control you could have a timer with lights set on a reverse photoperiod from your main tank. This would mean that if your main tank is on for 10hrs your sump is on for 14....This tank would grow the algae and your main should remain clean because all the nutrients are being used up by the algae in your sump (phosphates, silicates, nitrates).
Spread your 2 returns out more if possible for better flow.
That's all I can think of for now...Would love to see the finished product!
I am going for African Cichlids...my tank PH is now around 8.2-8.4 so the goldfish are feeling the ammonia rapidly(33 now). I don't want lower the PH yet since that should be ok for Africans. With both pumps running and no heaters, my tank temp goes from 70degrees to 78-80 degrees (hot pumps). I'm am possibly removing all the HOBs...dunno yet.
I dislike live plants for freswater in main display due to the maintenance involved for a clean look. I have changed the design, and I will post the new one when it is complete. I have now ordered 21 Red Mangroves from Hawaii to test out . I will replace the current sump with an acrylic sump and a drawer system similair to a Marineland Sump. I am using the 20g Long for the Mangrove plants near a window...and I have discovered the PVC union!!! I know, it's sad. I will be modifying alot of plumbing to complete this project.
I 'm guessing the overflow will drop in the 3 drawer system which will be filled with poly fill, pre-filter/ceramic via drilled holes to drip into it...some flow will be diverted to a 20g long for Mangroves(low flow rate) and then it will all return.
Tank is already drilled. Also, I thought you need a minimum of 5-8times water exchange per hour. One 581gph pump with 3" of back pressure can't possibly accomplish this. Or am I wrong?
1) If my biological filter is not fulled immersed in water will it function? I am planning to have it only trickled upon.
2) Can I utilize submerged and not submerged biological filtration? (not counting plants)
3) If I will have not plants in main sump, does it require light or can I use covered/almost sealed palstic/rubber container(sterilite/rubbermaid)?
4) Where would I introduce oxygen into the system? (air stones in the semi-sealed sump)
5) Should I remove all the HoBs and use the sump as the main source of filtration? (tank is cloudy after 3 days...
6) Local fish store recommended the 35goldfish and HoB...among alot of other stuff costing alot of money...yet I am starting fresh so there is a start cost I am sure.
1)having it trickled is even better!
3)no lighting is unecessary for a sump with no built-in fuge
4)HOBs add in a whole lot of oxygen
5)i would keep them
6)NEVER listen to pet store employees. yes fish-keeping can be an expensive hobby.
the bio matter needed for a 125 gallon long tank has to be massive specially for any tipe of african cichlids. reason cichlids produce very large amounts of waste. and yes biological filtration should be under water. expose to the air the biomatter will die of very quick. plus your HOB are essencial because they produce lots of air exchange and if they have bioweels even better. ihave a 125 long with (2rena filstar xp3)(2emperor400)(1emperor power head)(40 gallon sump 600gph running mostly biological filtration) this aquarium has a total of 40 cichlids mix. I do a 30% water change ones a week.
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