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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Feeding

Anybody agree or disagree with rinsing off frozen Mysis Shrimp before adding them to tank? I've been battling a phosphate issue lately and the left over bound hair has taken over my rockwork. Like bad... Looking for any suggestions to get rid of this issue. Thanks.
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 01:08 PM
 
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Re: Feeding

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Originally Posted by perm_dogg View Post
Anybody agree or disagree with rinsing off frozen Mysis Shrimp before adding them to tank? I've been battling a phosphate issue lately and the left over bound hair has taken over my rockwork. Like bad... Looking for any suggestions to get rid of this issue. Thanks.
I'd rinse them for a good reason: get cloudy soup out which your fishes do not drink. For hair algae, you battle it or accept it. I failed battling so I trimmed them so that they looks gracefully covered over certain rocks and they look good. You may also reduce your photo period to control the growth but this works for fish only (FOWLR). Alcohol dosing is, of course popular, but may not work for certain setups. Algae is good for fish to prevent HLLE; tanks with green stuff is natural and good for keeping fish in bright color in the long run.

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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 01:39 PM
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Re: Feeding

Rinse all frozen foods if it is not too much trouble.
What happened to the phosphate/spa stuff you were dosing?
Flake/prepared foods are loaded with phosphates also.



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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Feeding

Yep. I am still dosing Vodka and SeaKlear. My water quality is virtually perfect. I may have been dosing more than I should have on the SeaKlear, causing bound up phosphate "hair". I don't believe it is Hair Algae. (Are they the same thing?) It's not green or red, it's dust like grey and stringy. Blows off with a baster easily, it's just so much I can't bring myself to believe it's that simple. My corals are all happy, my fish are all alive and well, just my rocks look like the aftermath of a volcanic eruption. Still running RO/DI for all my top offs. Brand new filters in the system. Running my 75GPH Canister 24/7 along with skimmer and cleaning out the canister and media once a week. Nitrates are solid 0, phosphates read 0, but my question is what, why, how, is there bound up debris after dosing? I read a few novel sized articles over the last few days and think maybe its the dumping in of the capfulls all at once, maybe I need to slowly drip it in? I don't know. I always find a way to bring new issues on in this hobby. I am the global trial and error poster child. Just gotta fix it without investing in another $1000+ machine of some sort.
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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Feeding

Just a side note* I've also taken the rocks out and brushed them with a big bristle scrub brush in tank water and then put them back in the tank. Stuff still came back. Substrate is covered with this stuff. (Loose)
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 02:00 PM
 
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Re: Feeding

How big is your skimmer?

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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Feeding

I believe it's the HOB Aqua Maxx 75GPH Model. It's a great skimmer. It's been running 24/7 for over a year and hasn't even slowed down collecting nastiness from the tank.
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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 02:46 PM
 
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Re: Feeding

Well, as long as it works then is OK. I my self had tested so many and this one I did not test because it's rectangular, which I have no interest to evaluate.
What I believe you have severe photosensitive aerobic bacterial growth on the rocks. There are many such becteria; the most recognized is the cyano, which you don't have, indicating your water is of high quality. You may not have enough water movement in the tank to dislodge bacterial colonies. With a strong powerhead pointing at right angles you will reduce/eliminate accumulation of colonies from this growth.
In a natural reef this growth is predominate after most live corals were destroyed by hurricane/typhon because no competition from corals. That is exactly what is happening in your tank.

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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Feeding

That's a pretty bold hypothesis.... And I'm not even going to argue it..... Except.... I'm running a 800 gph Wavemaker and a 425 Koralia side by side on BOTH ends of the tank shooting at the glass and each other. Lack of flow is NOT an issue in my tank. And this outbreak happened instantaneously two days ago when I dumped in 2 caps of Seaklear. There was no previous signs of this type of outbreak prior to that. Like you said before. Some noticeable algae on the rocks, but the good kind. So.... Yeah. Still searching.
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 03:37 PM
 
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Re: Feeding

Now I have a complete picture but no solid clue. Lanthnum phosphate is a white powder and can cover surfaces but you have such strong current and I can't figure out how LaPO4 can cover everywhere.

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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Feeding

My phone is terrible at taking pictures, but ill post one when I get home. That should help a little.
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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 03:50 PM
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Re: Feeding

I was going to ask about circulation but remembered .
If you point either at the crap will it dislodge it?
Possibly(where is RM?) you can lower your dose of seaklear or apply it differently as you asked in the beginning?



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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 04:07 PM
 
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Re: Feeding

It's very likely the stuff is Lanthanum carbonate La2(CO3)3, which is fluffy, less dense than LaPO4, and tends to precipitate and continues to do so on carbonate surfaces.
Reason: you dump too much Seaklear, much much more after you depleted all phosphates in the tank. The remaining La+3 ion reacts with both carbonate in water and surface of substrate to precipitate out slowly, makes it nontoxic. Lanthanic ions are toxic to inverts and fish in its free state that why you should never use this in freshautolinker.com autolinking image water because it's going to kill.

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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 06:32 PM
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Re: Feeding

Couple of things bro. Your phosphates are at the low, you can either cut your dose, or add a few days inbetween dosing.
Its from dosing, that you see this crap. You've gotten it all out, now you can maintain it, just watch the levels, if your at a capful, cut it to half, or add 2-3 days.
My phone is dead. :( I get a new one tomorrow.

My 240g Reef Tank Pics
Water Parameter: Alk-8:PH-8.2:Cal420:Phosphate.05:Temp77:Nitrates-20:Mag1250:SG1.025
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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Feeding

Okay. As promised here's a pic. This doesn't even justify how thick this stuff is. It's covered everything in the tank. I continue to blow everything off with the turkey baster, but it's too much. It will take me a month to get it all out. Luckily nothing has died yet, but I've never seen something so unattractive. I took out two rocks i feel suspicious about. when i go to blow them out, there is so many holes it looks like gases are coming off of it so im throwing em away instead of brushing em again. Cb. Yes. it comes off loosely with any flow.
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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 09:01 PM
 
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Re: Feeding

There is always a danger of too much good things...without end point detection.
La carbonate forms because you added too much LaCl3. In SW you have unsightly tank, in FW you may have dead fishes. GFO can solve this problem for you.

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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 11:19 PM
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Re: Feeding

I'd be waiting on that Low Range Hanna Checker before I did anything drastic though. Would like to know exactly where your number sits. I know its low, but you want it low.
.05-.03

My 240g Reef Tank Pics
Water Parameter: Alk-8:PH-8.2:Cal420:Phosphate.05:Temp77:Nitrates-20:Mag1250:SG1.025
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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Feeding

Um.. About that...So I may or may not have panicked and pulled every rock in the tank out and let the dust settle. This morning I woke up and nobody died. The leather Corals aren't too happy, but what's new. The hair is still everywhere, but I'm not going to fight it anymore. I'll just hope the reduced dosing will have a positive effect and I can hire a clean up crew to help out as well. You still think I should do the Hanna checker? I read some reviews saying those aren't very accurate. Your thoughts?
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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 10:21 AM
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Re: Feeding

Hanna Checker, Low Range!
We can widdle this down to exacts using that baby.
Or, cut your dose like stated above, and we can watch the API test kit for slight coloration, then bumping it up.

My 240g Reef Tank Pics
Water Parameter: Alk-8:PH-8.2:Cal420:Phosphate.05:Temp77:Nitrates-20:Mag1250:SG1.025
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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Feeding

Well. Being the cheap bastard that you know I am. I like option 2. However, if I'm going to continue to advance and potentially get a bigger tank WITH Sump, I may need such a thing right?
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