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Welcome to the Aquarium Forum forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast and simple so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
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The most chatters online in one day was 16, 03-02-2012. TaylorM237 |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Has anyone got any feedback to share about the Seachem ammonia alert, and the Seachem PH indicator? These are the small cards with a round disc you stick in your aquarium water.
Also the Aquarium Pharmaceutical test strips, these are the ones you just dip in and compare to the coloured chart? How accurate are they ? Would you recommend using them over the normal test kits? (glass tubes and drops) Any other comments about these products would be good info. Thanks. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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You beat me to it. I was gonna ask about the alerts. There was one at petsmart for ammonia that lasts 1 year, but I was wondering if once it detects high ammonia will it be trash? or will the color change back and forth if the ammonia changes?
As for the strips everyone here says they aren't as accurate. I think they might cost more in the long run also.
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Elizabeth, SW Ohio 29g almost set up Male and Female Betta |
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#3 (permalink) |
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unda da sea
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yeah it's still a strip test kit and isn't going to be as accurate as a good liquid test kit
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#4 (permalink) |
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Seachem
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Thank you for your questions regarding the pH Alert and Ammonia Alerts! These little devices are amazingly accurate, as they work based on gas exchange technology. The Ammonia Alert, unlike test kits that cannot distinguish between free and total ammonia, will even give an accurate reading of free (toxic) ammonia when ammonia-binding products, such as water conditioners are present in the water. Nessler-based test kits, for instance, will give false positive readings in this case. Also, the sensor will change as the levels rise and fall, even after having been exposed to high levels of ammonia.
The pH Alert is only available for freshwater systems but is also highly accurate and will give constant pH readings. Hope this information helps! |
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#5 (permalink) |
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It seems like the advantage would be being able to check it any time. Ammonia can build up fast so unless you test every day testing only does you so much good. Even if it's not perfect you could check it as many times as you want and it could be a much earlier warning. I'm still waiting to hear from people who have actually used them.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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In my opinion, close is good enough. If you are testing the water to make sure there are no dangerous levels of ammonia and other levels are within the range that is healthy for the fish you are keeping, it doesn't have to be "perfect" or that exact. I know the die-hards are going to say you have to use the liquid master kits, but I just don't think so.
The new testing strips seem to work fine (I do use them) and they work very similarly to when the doctor checks to see if you have sugar in your urine or you have an infection. The doc uses a test strip. I think the strips will alert you if you have a problem, even if it's not "exact", and that's what the testing is all about. Quote:
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#7 (permalink) |
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Seachem
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Thanks for the input everyone!
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#8 (permalink) |
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AbadHabit
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I have used both the ph and ammonia. Worked pretty good for my 10 gal and 29. Still a little expensive for my taste. But I wonder if you need more than one in a 55 or above tank? I guess if you have enough water movement it might not matter. Besides, I like seeing the right colors with my liquid test. Interesting subject though.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#10 (permalink) |
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Seachem
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Yes, the Ammonia Alert will work in both fresh and saltwater systems, and it can be used interchangeably, if need be. I would recommend soaking it in some RO or DI water prior to switching it back and forth between tanks, in order to let it "regenerate", if you will.
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