Well you know exactly why small tanks are bad for beginners. With that said keep in mind even 28 gallon nano cubes need to be watched very well to flourish. Not saying 15 gallon tank isent a no-no. I just don't want something to happen and ruin your opinion of this awesome hobby.

Usually people like to go with canister for FOWLR and sump/refugium for reef. It's your choice really.

hey couldn't hurt! Just make sure there isn't oil in it

If you use cultured live rock, and real ocean water. Your tank will not need too be cycled. The LR, LS, and water do that for you in this case.

If you buy cured dry live rock I always like to give it a nice freshwater rinse. If you buy cultured live rock that came of of a tank you will want to transport it preferably in water (doesn't HAVE too be). Before adding it too your tank just take a good look and inspect it for hitchhikers. The last thing you want is a mantis shrimp roaming around a 15 gallon tank.

Beautiful, docile, small enough for a 15 gallon. I would go with a mandarin blenny.

If you don't want to QT the fish before adding it too the display tank yes your method will work. However a lot of people here prefer too drip acclimate.

You will need too get the fish some fish food. They aren't picky but there are some special blends specifically for marine fish.

Oh lets just say 15% water change every two weeks. Check levels every other day. Just until you know how your tank runs.

I'm glad your are asking questions and not just jumping in.

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FWIW I would just cram in an egg crate (1/4" square plastic grid) a few inches from the glass and add chaetomorphia (or other macro algaes) in that area. and add some side lighting to light up that protected area.

then do the rest.

To me live rock, sand, filters, and everything else is secondary to that operation.


But that's just me.

and my .02

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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html
recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden

Hm......Can we pretend this was my idea?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amie View Post
1. The tank I have available is a 15 gallon. I wanted to start with something very small simply because of the cost of outfitting the tank and the cost of the fish for it and room for the tank. Is that okay. I know bigger is better because if the tank conditions change they will change quickly but is this size a 'no way' or a 'watch it'?
Well you know exactly why small tanks are bad for beginners. With that said keep in mind even 28 gallon nano cubes need to be watched very well to flourish. Not saying 15 gallon tank isent a no-no. I just don't want something to happen and ruin your opinion of this awesome hobby.

So, are there any warning signs I should watch for if I use this one? Between now and then I will probably get a bigger one anyway but just in case I don't.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Amie View Post
3. Okay, by the time you answer this question we have the tank and filtration figured out. Next thing; what do I need to add to the water? Would it be a good idea to just get actual water from the ocean?? (I live across the road from it).
hey couldn't hurt! Just make sure there isn't oil in it

OMG!!! Too funny LOFLMAO!!!!! I don't think that water has reached here yet. I haven't heard anything about it making it here. I'm in Newfoundland. WAY up the coast.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Amie View Post
7. Introducing it into the tank. Does the same method apply that I use for the freshwater tank? Floating the bag for awhile then slowing introducing the water in the open bag and etc etc you know that drill.
If you don't want to QT the fish before adding it too the display tank yes your method will work. However a lot of people here prefer too drip acclimate.

How do you do that??

FWIW I would just cram in an egg crate (1/4" square plastic grid) a few inches from the glass and add chaeromorphia (or other macro algaes) in that area. and add some side lighting to light up that protected area.

How does that work?? How would you set it up?


Another questions:

can I use the regular decorations and gravel in my marine aquarium that I used in my freshwater set up??

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10gal fry tank planted with Wisteria, Java Moss, Anuabis and Anacharis
35gal Sponge Bob tank with live bearing tropicals (daughters tank)
15gal planted with Swords, Java Fern, Wisteria and Red Rubin housing 10 fry and 2 bladder snails
55 gal with Oscar (future planted tank with angels and flowerhorns)
55 gal Community tank (platys, mollys, guppys, glass catfish, angels, phantom tetra, red eye tetra and swordtails)

dead fish is usually a dead give away. Too be honest just check your levels every day or every other day too make sure.

Well you should be just fine then


Here is a really good video on how too drip acclimate: Acclimation

You buy some egg-crate (light diffuser) break or cut too size and stick it in with some zip-ties

Gravel causes serious issues with silicates that promote algae growth. You would want too use live sand.
You could use ornaments I guess, but IMO they look cheesy in SW tanks.

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sure

I stole it from you.

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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html
recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden

Egg crate is lighting diffuser you can buy in the lighting section of ceiling tile sections of building supply stores. It costs like $10-12 for a ~4'x2' section.

As stated just cut it to shape and cram it in. And add some side lighting also.

For more specifics what I did from the 55g was move the rocks forward. Cut the section in half and just crammed in the sections about 3" in front of the back glass. Actually it would have been better to do three sections to clear the top center brace. I then put some land scape lava rocks at the bottom and power heads and pvc fittings at the top to hold it off the glass.

I then added 2 4' 2 tube utility NO fixtures 4" behind the back glass pointing forward.

Some just put a piece diagonally at a back corner.

Use your immagination. It really is not all that hard.

After installing my macro took off, nitrates dropped to 0, my tangs were grazing on the macros that poked through, and smaller fish went through the squares to feed.
Yep. But I wouldn't. They look like rocks after awhile.


my .02

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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html
recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden

hi all!

im similar to a few people on thi thread, starting a fish only tank maybe some soft coral alot later but for now i still have a lot of questions...

info you will need before u can answer mine

i plan on live rock and live sand with a fluuva filtering system below the tank... also open to suggestion...

100ltr tank 90cm by 30cm by 45cm not the biggest tank but once i could get ahold of and use easily, 108ltrs full but iv filled to 3/4 with dechlroinated water and added some reccomended sea salts. have a 100watt heater an am allowing salts to dissolve for 24 hours.

this is as far as i have got an iv already heard that the dechlorinated water might lead to trouble with algae but im guessin ill cross it when i come to it :s

main issues for me are;

-protein skimmer do i really need 1? at the lfs i was recommended a skimmer that did 400ltr tanks... seriously it was £80

-flow pumps, iv read ill need about 2000lph but i think i need 2 or 3 pumps for a good flow over live rock is that right

-i know i have to let the tanks create a proper climate before i introduce fish but how should i do that really?

-do i add the live sand as soon as the salt has dissolved or test the water first?

i know its alot of questions and ill probably have more but for now this is main info i need i think :D

cheers guys

Ponzy

Hi guys,you should use aquarium thermometer,refractometers,etc,,,to test your water quality so that your fish will get well

I am glad to know that somebody who has been in this hobby as long as I have is on this site.Looking forword in sharing information

Well it's been a while since I've been here. I'm glad to know that this thread is still helping folks out.

Glad to hear that bob is still promoting macro algae in the tank. I wouldn't rate it more important than live rock but it does wonders to keep tank parameters in balance.

My tank just about takes care of itself and I credit much of my success to under stocking fish, having twice as much live rock as generally recommended, and having a bumper crop of Halimeda.

I wish you all the best!

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Doc

Dr Hank's 200 gallon Reef Tank
http://www.aquariumforum.com/f46/drhanks-tank-3440.html

Amie asked a number of good questions about a 15 gallon tank. I didn't really read all the responses but do want to make a few comments on all small tanks.

First, the smaller the volume of water you have the less marine life it can accommodate.

Next, the smaller the volume of water the quicker changes in water parameters occur.

Rapid changes in water parameters generally lead to death of marine life.

Finally, if you decide to go marine in a 15 gallon tank, learn all you can from those who are successful in maintaining Nano tanks.

As a final comment please do not consider putting a Mandarin Goby in a nano tank. These fish require a nearly infinite source of ampipods and coepods. This equates to more live rock and macro algae than your 15 gallon tank can ever hold.

Sorry but I must disagree with the recommendation of this fish for a nano tank.

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Doc

Dr Hank's 200 gallon Reef Tank
http://www.aquariumforum.com/f46/drhanks-tank-3440.html

hi there new to this hobby just bought a 64 litre tank cleaned all parts etc in cold water added tap safe aswell as quick start straight in to the sponge of filter as told to by pets at home . turned on filter heater and turned on the moon light now on day three and water a smidge cloudy is this normal . says to ad quick start every other day for seven days and leave tank for two weeks before adding fish . is this right or am i doing something wrong and is it best to start with fresh water fish and not salt water
fish as was hoping to get some mollys ?

Are you doing a fresh or salt setup?

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It is best to let the tank run from sometime before adding the fish. With my planted tanks (Fw and salt) I let the tank run fishless for a week. Without plants it takes longer IMHO.

Initial cloudiness is normal but should clear up in a couple of days. If longer kill the lights and let things clear up.

I have found mollys do better with salt in the water (even to the point of a full marine tank). If you want a Fw tank I would suggest using platys instead.


my.02

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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html
recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden

Very informative. Outstanding, thanks.