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#1 (permalink) |
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I know that overfeeding results in poor water quality, and worse, but how much is enough? I know you are only supposed to use what they can clear in 3 mins, but what about community tanks with fast and slow eaters? What about wafers, eg for Corys? What about weather loach?
Sorry if this seems obvious, but I really don't want to screw up. I thought the hard bit was over with cycling, but now the fish are in and happy I am really stressing! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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What they can eat in 2 mins is generally the rule of thumb, if some falls to the bottom its prolly best to scoop it out.
but with bottom feeders like you have you can prolly leave it for them to eat, if you are going to feed algae wafers or something its different i believe my package says what they can eat in 2 hours? which is a long time but its always good to just make sure that they eat all of the food you will get the hang of how much when to feed them and everything then can experiment with different types.
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Tank 125g african cichlids making it work 75g rimless Reef in progress |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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During my "cycle" period after the first single fish is added I add no food for a week. Then when other fish are added I feed only a flake or two per day. After a few months when the tank has matured I do feed more and at that time also probably have more fish as well. But the 1 flake per every fish or two per day gives you a general ball park. my .02 |
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#4 (permalink) |
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I feed more than Bob does (Jeez Bob, I was afraid you were going to say you got by without food too
).The big thing to remember is that flake is rich, and obesity is a major killer. I feed a tiny pinch once a day, twice or more for young fry, and have a day a week with no food. I feed flake a couple of times a week, and home cultured/hatched food in about equal measure. I'm into breeding fish though, so nutrition is key. However, with quick metaboloism fish like Xiphophorus (platys and swordtails) I feed every day - they do poorly unless they eat a lot. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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#6 (permalink) |
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did you just say i fish lived for 10 months with no food? impossible even if it lived it was getting food some other way
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#7 (permalink) |
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how can a fish go 10 months with no food bob, you talking about ina fish tank or pond
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What happens if you get scared half to death, twice? Last edited by Rob72 : 02-16-2012 at 04:43 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Susan and Bev's protégé
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I don't stress feeding too much. I feed a pinch of flakes every day, every other day some earth worm sticks for hte coyrs and pictus cats, and every other day some veggie sticks for the plecos. Once a week I put zucchini in for the plecs as well
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#9 (permalink) |
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I need to cut back on my feeding, my parameters are fine but my cory's are chunky
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#10 (permalink) | |
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mainly people sold those betta vases with plants and told customers the betta would eat food from the plant roots. so they just took the vase home and set it someplace expecing the betta to live forever. LOL |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Susan and Bev's protégé
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That's insane and cruel.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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I always heard a fishes stomach is roughly the size of its eye. Thats the rule of thumb I go by. It basically equates to a pinch a day
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I just wish I could find the food I used a couple years ago, before I got out of the hobby. I dont remember what it was called or who made it but it was basically like small wafers that would sink at different rates. Some would stay on the top for the top water feeders, some would sink slowly for the middle feeders and some would sink quickly for the bottom feeders. One little shake of the can and the whole tank was fed. If I remeber right, it was a high protein food and they only got it once in a while but they sure liked it. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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....has no life....
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I don't believe that crap at all! I can take that the fish wasn't being fed by anyone, but they were eating something.
I feed my fish 4 times a week, but they do get a little extra when I do feed. I have a couple of heavy competition tanks where all of them enjoy the same foods. It can be challenging with bottom feeders when you see no food is reaching the bottom. There is a big difference between enough to survive and the fish thriving, IMO. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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#15 (permalink) |
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I use a variety of foods, including some that stay at the top, and some that quickly sink to the bottom. Some, such as micropellets, will sink very slowly, giving everyone a chance to eat something. Shrimp pellets will sink to the bottom quickly, for the Cories, but even some of the Tetras will go to the bottom and pick them up.
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#16 (permalink) |
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As long as all the fish are getting some food and the water isn't getting dirty from too much food it's probably okay. After a while you get the hang of seeing if the fish are looking a little too skinny or a bit on the plump side and adjust accordingly.
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#17 (permalink) |
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I feed all my tanks a pinch in the morning and again at night, corries and ghost shrimp do all the clean up. It did take a while to get amounts right, but now it takes no thought at all.
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#18 (permalink) |
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You're still best to feed fish daily and lightly, with a day off per week.
Watch it with corys - they have armour, so they will always look chunky. With them, you have to look along the belly behind the gills. If it is sunken at all, they are underfed. Barbs and tetras seem to have the biggest tendency to obesity. Zebras are a good example of a fish to watch - they are shaped like torpedos, which says they have adaptations to 'running- they come from very fast moving water. Watch how happy they are in freshly changed water or in a filter outflow. We usually keep them in slow moving tanks with little circulation, and they can gain weight because they are wired to move with nowhere to go. You have to research each fish. An underfed swordtail loses weight fast. A Goodeid or molly needs high fiber plant food. Protein foods kill Goodeids, while predators don't want plant food. Cichlids need to eat, and will show weight loss behind their heads, on their backs, not on the gut. Bob's attempting to rattle everyone's cage with his long slow starvation anecdote, I'm afraid. After about 3 weeks, a fish begins to suffer. In a heavily planted, lightly stocked tank, it will hunt small organisms that will always be there, but it will first lose its reproductive ability, then begin to move very slowly and unnaturally. Young fish will be stunted and spinal deformities will begin to develop. They starve to death like any animal, ourselves included. I wish Bob would be more specific, as once again, with vague general statements, a fishkeeping myth can be created. What fish species? What kind of tank? When and where? I admit, I don't feed my unicorns, and they thrive. With no food, I don't need to clean their pen, either. They're great pets, and I love playing xylophone on their ribs! |
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#19 (permalink) |
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I wish you could convince mollies of that, lol, given the chance they will eat as much meaty, fatty food they can get their mouths on, and push other fish out of the way to get it. For me that's the only tricky bit about feeding, trying to get the right balance for all the fish when you have ones with different needs, habits in the same tank.
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#20 (permalink) |
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Wild betta tamer
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This is very cruel.The poor fish is barely getting by on eating the microscopic organisms that feed off the roots(not the roots themselves,as bettas are not herbivores)I have seen many betta fish slowly die off in those conditions.One reason they last so long is their metabolism slows from the lack of warmth.
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