Hiya folks... newbie here...

I'm looking to assemble a new tank for my wife. Probably a 30 Gal. I know she will want to go fresh water, and I know she likes to grow plants, in addition to the fish.

My question:
The aquarium store I visited told me that the best choices for me were either a power filter, like the MI Emperor 280, or a canister type filter.

He said that if I wanted to grow plants the canister would be better, because the other type tends to not only aerate the water but extract the co2, because of the splashing of the filter. He said that this reduction of CO2 would inhibit the vigorous growth of plants and that I'd be better off with a canister for plants because there is no splashing.

I'd be grateful for your opinion on this.

Thanks

Peter

Well,first off I do agree with a canister filter,but not for the reason stated.You can still have splashing with a canister filter,it just depends where you place your outflow.

Also if you have your water level high enough the power filter will not really deplete the CO2.

Depending on what plants you want to go with will determine many factors,like if you need an alternate source of carbon,better lighting and fertilization added.

I like a canister filter as I feel its a much better design,and I also feel i get better filtration then a HOB.

What you choose is up to you,its your preference.

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http://bountifulbettas.blogspot.com/

"Come to the dark side....we have cookies...and filters/heaters/and water changes!"

Thanks for the quick reply...

Yes, it seems clear the canister filters better. And I understand what you say about lighting and fertilizer... My plan is to introduce plants slowly, perhaps just 2 or 3 to start, and see if the fish provide enough "natural" fertilizer to feed them. Then add more plants... Lotsa room in a 30 gal.

I did not understand your comment about and "alternative source of carbon".

Do tell?

Thanks

Peter

Instead of relying on just the fish to produce the carbon dioxide,some plants need alot more,so unless you stock with a ton of fish you will need to add something else.

You can do this several ways.Seachem makes a fert thats carbon based.The name escapes me though.Its good if you have a small tank.In larger tanks you will spend aot of money adding this.You can also make a CO2 reactor,buy using a mixof water sugar and yeast,and have the gas from this going into the tank,or even still get a pressurized CO2 system.Its initial cost is the most but in the long run its the cheapest and most reliable way to go.

Though I must add this is not a necessity until you get high demanding plants,if you ever do.You can still have a lovely tank planted with easy to grow plants ike java moss,java fern,anubias nana,cryptcoryne wendtii,wisteria,jut to name a few.They will grow slow and may not fil in fast enough but the ease and beauty of them is awesome.

__________________
http://bountifulbettas.blogspot.com/

"Come to the dark side....we have cookies...and filters/heaters/and water changes!"

If you are referring to Seachem Flourish, I like it but wouldn't use that as my source of carbon. If you needed one, I would much rather do a DIY CO2 setup and that sized tank would be well suited for it.

I prefer a canister for planted also. It gives you a little more flexibility in where to place your plants. A HOB can cause CO2 to vacate the tank a little sooner, but if you keep your water level high enough where the water is not crashing into your tank it shouldn't be too bad. Nothing wrong with aerating the water, you just don't want water splash. Filter is a minor choice for planted tanks though. IMO, the two main things are the light and substrate, with the light being the major factor.

Hello Pete.

If you're looking for a nice, basic tank, then a standard power filter that hangs on the back of the tank (HOB), like an Aqua Clear brand is fine. I use an Aqua Clear 50 on my 30 gallon tank. In terms of efficiency, ease of use, and cost, an HOB is the way to go.

An HOB isn't going to harm your plants. I have a couple of heavily planted smaller tanks and if you change half the tank water in them every week and have a reasonable number of fish, the tank practically takes care of itself.

B

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Low Tech Water Building Keeper

The guy at the LFS was trying to up-sell... I have used canisters but now I'm using HOB's on my 155's, 125, 55's.. and they are fully planted!.. No ferts,,, no CO2. I have to thin out my val's once a month!... Lighting is what I consider the key issue... Try to get to 2 watts per gallon if it's a deeper tank.. Bulbs at least 6,500 Kelvins. For substrate?.. Two choices in my opinion... The best I've come across is Pool Filter sand. The value of pfs over playground sand is that PFS will not compact. It's been sieved to be .45-.55 mm to ALLOW water to pass through it. Plus it promotes good root development. About $10.00 for a 50 lb bag which will more than do a 55G!.. My second choice is even cheaper and provides a more natural look. The product is clay-based and is used in automotive garages to soak up spills. It looks like natural gravel but provides some mineral content to the plants. Cost is $5.00 for 40 lbs. (This product requires a lot of rinsing)..
Good luck with your build. Bill in Va

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12 Tanks, 900 gallons. Discus/Angels/Malawi/Lake Victorias. Just added a 135 & 2 - 29's..

Oh. one more thing.. Lighting?.. Lowe's and HD sell 6,700K bulbs for 1/4th what the pet stores charge. I'm very frugal can ya tell?.. Bill in Va.

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12 Tanks, 900 gallons. Discus/Angels/Malawi/Lake Victorias. Just added a 135 & 2 - 29's..

I'd say go with a canister filter if it's in your budget if for no other reason than the noise. Canister filters are almost always silent where as HOB's can make a real racket.

Substrate is a key factor in plant success. There are a lot of planted tank substrates out there that cost a fortune. There are also a lot of ways to do it on the cheap. Turface is great (a little floaty though) at around $15 for 50 lbs. John Deer stores often carry it, but call ahead and ask first. Plain old grey kitty litter works too, but it turns to mush faster than Turface.

Lighting is another key element and one that can be even more costly than substrate. It's very easy to spend more than $100 to light a 30 gallon for plants but you don't have to. I get the cheap clip on desk lamps at Wal Mart for less than $10 each and put those little spiral compact fluorescent bulbs in them. Get the "daylight" or "bright white" ones. You can adjust the amount of light you want by just getting higher or lower wattage bulbs.

A bottle of Seachem Flourish Excel can help provide carbon to plants if you don't want to set up a Co2 system.

Remember, plants need 3 things: light, nutrients, and Co2. When these things get out of balance, you get algae.

-Clay

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Clay Turville
Southern Oak Aquatics