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#1 (permalink) |
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From what I saw elsewhere it is advised that if u have a lot of fish you should be replacing water at the rate of approx 50% a week.
That seem like an aweful lot of water in a 30 Gal aquarium. When replacing the water, does the new water need to be pre-filtered? I just replaced 1/2 my water and ran all the new water through the filtration system into the aquarium rather than just pouring it in. Is that necessary? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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....has no life....
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Not needed. All that is needed is that you put enough water traetment (dechlor) in the tank for the new water. It is not necessary to treat prior. Just put it in the tank before you add the new water.
For me, 50% for a 30g would be easy. It's abut 12-13g. I have been doing it a while though. I do 50-70% weekly on all my tanks. You'll get used to it. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Do I have to add the dechlor straight into the water? Is the 4-part filter not enough?
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#4 (permalink) |
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....has no life....
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Dechlor needs to added. Your filter will not remove chlorine. If you're pouring untreated water into your filter the chlorine will kill the beneficial bacteria that is trying to grow there. Not a good thing to do and especially bad if your tank is still cycling.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Dude.... wait..... what?
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Not to mention that the chlorine will kill the fish too.
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20g Heavily Planted http://www.aquariumforum.com/gallery...00&ppuser=8981 36g Bow Front Heavily Planted http://www.aquariumforum.com/gallery...00&ppuser=8981 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Susan and Bev's protégé
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I have a 29 gal and a syphon makes it so much easier to change out the water.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Wild betta tamer
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I change out 50% of my water as well.I dont pre filter it,but I do add dechlorinator to make it safe for the fish.Otherwise theres a chance the fish may die from the chlorine in the tap.
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http://bountifulbettas.blogspot.com/ "Come to the dark side....we have cookies...and filters/heaters/and water changes!" |
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#8 (permalink) |
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You can fill a few plastic gallon milk containers with water. Let them sit for 24 to 48 hours and this gets rid of the chlorine. I change about 15% of my water weekly in the 29 gallon tank and vacuum. I then pour 5 to 6 gallon containers of water in the tank then treat the entire tank with H20 conditioner, Stress Coat and Stress Zyme. I pour in a couple tsps. of
FloraPride too, for the plants ! |
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#9 (permalink) |
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I talked to the guy in the shop yesterday and he claimed that a 10% change every week is plenty. I think this is partly due to the power filter I have.
Did a 50% change Saturday cos I hadn't done one at all. Yesterday I did an ammonia check and got a zero level. I'll see what happens if I make 10-15% changes for the next few weeks. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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#11 (permalink) |
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After reading these posts, I'm going to start changing out 50% of the H20
in my 29 gallon weekly. I've been doing 15%. I would like to see a lower ammonia level, although the fish are doing fine. It just makes sense, considering they live in the water 24/7. Thanks !! |
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#12 (permalink) |
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I'm thinking of adding an additional filter to my 29 gallon. Currently I have a Top Fin 30. I'm wondering if it's doing enough. The ammonia level remains high and after I vacuum, the water clouds up.
Should I add another filter for a 30 gallon and put it on the opposite side of the tank from the existing one or just get a bigger filter ? Thanks for any suggestions ! |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#14 (permalink) |
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What type of filters are we talking about?
I have a massive pump filter. I assume that that is enough. BTW - the guy in the shop was definitely not trying to oversell. He actually refused to sell me more fish until I show him a pic of all the fish I now have. Another point connected to this. Most of the dirt (droppings) are obviously at the bottom in the pebbles. I assume that the filter doesn't clean that out and changing water doesn't seem to be a way of cleaning those out either. What else do I need? |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Your current filter is sufficient, but only if you're changing a minimum of half the tank water every week. If you're not, then you should be. I'm afraid I'm guilty of under filtering my large tanks, but I change out at least half the water weekly, so there's no time for toxins to build up in the water before the next water change. I recently read that a good "rule of thumb" for filtration is to have a filter with a gph (gallons per hour) rating at least 6 times the volume of your tank. B
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#16 (permalink) |
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Yes, I've decided that the 50% H20 change out is the way to go. I'll start doing it this week instead of buying another filter. (Save some $ !)
Thanks for the tip everyone ! |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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....has no life....
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EI dosing ferts makes it necessary to do at least 50% for me. I usually do a little extra because I tend to overfeed and this causes my nitrates and phosphates to climb a little. Plus, in my 75g I'm heavily stocked. There is nothing counterproductive to plants that I am aware of doing big water changes. A large portion of planted tank enthusiats do it, especially the hi-tech group. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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sorry I can't help you.
I don't do water changes. Geee does that actually help? my .02
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden |
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#20 (permalink) |
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^^^ yea i gotta look up your build soon. Looking to do planted tank witha few fish and was looking into the el natural way so i gotta see what yours is made up of
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