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#1 (permalink) |
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Hello, I recently lost a Needle nose Gar and 2 Turquoise Rainbows shortly after introducing then to my tank. I thought this was weird as I have not had issues introducing fish before. I also lost a needle-nose gar the night before after 2 days after purchase. I have never concerned myself with water chemistry before as all of my fish were still alive and well ( I thought anyway) After loosing so many fish, I decided to finally buy the API test kit to find out why I was loosing so many fish. I had live plants in the tank for a short while but have recently decided to remove them as they would not root properly. Below shows my readings and corrective measures I have taken since I bought the test kit. This morning I lost a Pink Kissing Gourami that has been in the tank for months.
Tank Specs: 46 Gallon Bow-front with Fluval 305 canister filter. Canister running coarse foam element, 3 carbon and 1 ammochip bag plus 2 bacteria pellet areas and fine water scrubber. Running 2 bubblers, 1 18" accross back of tank and 1 smaller fine bubbler further forward behind rocks. Lighting is 1 36" Marineland LED with Moonlighting. Daylight is 10 hours and 2 hours of moonlight. There is a heater however I do not remember the wattage, however the packaging said it was appropriate for this size tank. ________________________________________________________________ _ 02/03: Temp-76.4; pH- 7.0; Ammonia- 8.0 ppm; Nitrite- 5.0 ppm; Nitrate- 5.0 ppm; Corrective Measures- 10 Gallon Water Change 02/04: Temp-76.3; pH- 7.2; Ammonia- 8.0 ppm; Nitrite- 5.0 ppm; Nitrate- 40ppm; Corrective Measures- 15 Gallon Water change, Cleaned Canister filter, Added bacteria Supplement and Am Quel Plus. This Morning: 02/05: Temp- 75.0; pH-7.6; Ammonia- 4.0 ppm; Nitrite- 5.0ppm; Nitrate- 160ppm; Corrective Measures- None taken yet. Removed Dead Gourami. 02/06: Temp- 77.2; pH- 7.0; Ammonia- .25 ppm; Nitrite- 5.0 ppm; Nitrate- 160 ppm; Corrective Measures- Added 2nd dose of Bacteria Supplement 02/07: Temp- 75.6; pH- 7.0; Ammonia- 0 ppm; Nitrite- 0 ppm; Nitrate- 160 ppm; Corrective Measures- Beginning lighter feeding regimine 02/14: Temp- 77.4; pH- 7.0; Ammonia- 0.25 ppm; Nitrite- 0 ppm; Nitrate- 40 ppm; Corrective Measures- Water change. ________________________________________________________________ _ Current stocking (after last fish death) 1 Electric Blue Cray 2 Pink Kissing Gourami 2 Pearl Gourami 1 Opaline Gourami 2 Sunset Gourami's (1/2" long each) 2 Golden Wonder Killiefish 3 Turquoise Rainbows 2 Australian rainbows 1 Spotted Sailfin Pleco (small) 1 Snakeskin Gourami ________________________________________________________________ _ I'm not sure if I am on the right path or not. I know that the Ammonia has gone down in the past 2 days however I"m not sure how to interpret the other data. Any help would be appreciated. I'm probably going to do another 10 Gallon water change and see where that leaves me.
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46 Gal Bowfront: It has fish.... Please don't post things in my thread that could get it locked, It is NOT appreciated. Last edited by fishnjeeps : 02-14-2012 at 08:06 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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That guy....
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How long have you had the tank up and running? The ammonia and nitrites are frighteningly high for an and deadly for established tank.what is your feeding pattern? Are you over feeding? Your fish count is ok for he tank size. But the fact that ammonia ans nitrite are present is a bad sign. By the last check the tank seems like its on the right path... I would check again tonight and do a partial water change if the ammonia and nitrite are still up. I would also back off to one feeding a day until its in check ans also ideally put the fish in another tank until the ammonia is much lower...
From time to time is see my ammonia hop up to around 0.25 and usually its when I use part of a bottom feeder pellet to supplement the bamboo shrimp I have via the degradation of the pellet and the tetra picking it appart. But I would keep a close eye on your ammonia pecked and try and figure out why its spiking. Also how do you add your new fish? Do you do the sink bag in tank then tear it open later and let the fish loose with the water in the bag ?
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When you pay that cash or swipe that card you are making a bond with that animal that you will treat it with love and respect, and its needs will be met, first and foremost (unless you have kids...) I don't care if you have to eat ramen noodles or nothing at all to feed your cat dog fish rat whatever. That's the bond you made! Life is precious! |
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#3 (permalink) |
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The tank has been in this location for just over 2 years. It was also running for 2 years prior however, I moved twice and every move I kept 20 gallons of old tank water.
Also, I drip acclimate inside the tank. (hang bag in tank while dripping water in.) Feeding is once a day as it is. I stopped feeding after I saw the Ammonia levels and have not fed since. Will feed a small amount tonight or tomorrow so the cray doesn't kill any fish.
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46 Gal Bowfront: It has fish.... Please don't post things in my thread that could get it locked, It is NOT appreciated. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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....has no life....
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These reading are all after the numerous big water changes you needed to do?
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#5 (permalink) |
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Day 1 is before any water change.
Day 2 is after 10 gallon change Day 3 is after 15 more gallons changed, cleaning the filter, and adding the bacteria and am quel.
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46 Gal Bowfront: It has fish.... Please don't post things in my thread that could get it locked, It is NOT appreciated. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Your tank water is completly unacceptable to keep fish in. Your high Nitrates, Ammonia and Nitrites indicates that you have an extreme overfeeding situation and/or have some dead fish and/or snails in your tank. Start a 10-20% water change every day or two and gradually your water situation should gradually improve. Don't change more than 20% of your water at a time or you may loose fish through the shock. You lost a Gar, these are very tough fish so you water must be very bad for them to die.
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#7 (permalink) |
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I have to admit, I am most stumped by your nitrate levels. The only time I have ever seen nitrates jump that fast was during tank cycling, but I had a huge load of nitrites to convert. In your case, ammonia and nitrites aren't changing that fast, so where are the nitrates coming from? Double check to make sure you performed the nitrate test correctly. It is especially important to shake the bottle well for this test since the chemicals settle out.
I have heard of people doing well with ammochips, but I think you have to be very careful with them. Since they interfere with the bacterial cycle, it is essential that fresh ammochips always be in the tank. Keep us posted. Best of luck. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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....has no life....
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You need about a 50% change everyday until your levels get down much lower. Stop feeding until the levels come down and do a gravel vacuum. Leave the filter alone.
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#9 (permalink) |
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How do you clean your filter? When you tested your water on 2/3 was that right after losing some fish? and how long were the dead ones in there, dead fish can drive up your ammonia pretty quick, which in turn drives up the nitrites. High nitrates tells me your feeding to much or have some rotting plants/leaves in there.
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#10 (permalink) |
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I did an ammonia test tonight (ammonia only) just to see if there was a change and I was down to 1 ppm. I haven't had a chance to perform another water change like I had hoped to. I'll check everything again in the morning to see where I stand.
As far as the tests go, I'm following the directions to the letter. If it says shake 30 seconds or 1 min, I time that out. All tests have been performed in the same way every time. I also stopped feeding after the first test was performed and the high levels were found. TO make things more interesting, I found out that my T5 light fixture burned out. So I wen out and bought myself a marineland LED light fixture with moonlighting. I have to say, the light is quite impressive however not quite as bright as I thought it would be. The moonlighting makes a real nice glow just before bed. I'll keep posting my results as I go. Obviously this is not a good environment for my fish and I'm learning from this experience. While this was not intentional it is what's happening and I am attempting everything I can to repair this damage. Thank you for your help and for bearing with me.
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46 Gal Bowfront: It has fish.... Please don't post things in my thread that could get it locked, It is NOT appreciated. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I will admit that over feeding is a possibility and I will look more carefully as to how much I feed.
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46 Gal Bowfront: It has fish.... Please don't post things in my thread that could get it locked, It is NOT appreciated. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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....has no life....
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What are your nitrites then, if the ammonia has dropped?
I like the attitude you have about all of it. We have all made mistakes in this and this will be by no means, your last. I do at least one thing a month that could cause issues but I am just thankful my tanks are resilient. I would feed no more than once a day and even then, no more food than it takes the fish no more than 3-4 minutes to consume. I have found that turning off my filters and any flow during feeding helps, as it makes it easier for the fish to get the food. I would also suggest skipping at least one day of feeding. This gives your bio filter time to catch up so to speak. I tend to feed every other day, but I intentionally overfeed. For me, it is a situation of making sure my less aggressive eaters get fed along with the more aggressive ones. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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test total and free ammonia using the (i think) seachem multitest ammonia test kit.
The amquell could be locking up all the ammonia but most test kits report total ammonia not just the free ammonia. add all the anacharis (even if just floating) you can gut your hands on. Thriving anacharis will rapidily consume the ammonia so it reads 0 while consuming carbon dioxide and returning oxygen. I'm a big time planted tank guy so your problems after removing the live plants is a really really big flag to me. But that is just my .02
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden |
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#14 (permalink) |
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I agree with the comments about your ammonia and nitrite being too high. You have had the tank a couple of years so you should have the filter service down but I have been keeping fish since 1975 and every now and then I goof. It really sounds like you may have killed off your bacteria. I highly recommend two things, keep adding bacteria daily and keep up the water changes. Generally you probably do not need to change as much water with the species you have but I have to to regular, 30-50%, water changes with my discus. I bought two large plastic trash cans for preparing water and run a pump, bubbler, and heater in them. I make sure the temperature is pretty darn close to the tank temperature and the PH is the same before I change anything. For now the best way to knock the levels down is to change the water but I strongly recommend you prepare the water first. If you have to change daily for a week or so a single night of aging your water will be better than nothing but I rotate mine and age it a couple of days as a minimum unless I have a problem. I changed 200 gallons this weekend, 100 gallons Friday and 100 gallons Sunday because I let it slide with work and my nitrates were high, not a problem with most fish but my discus were not happy, colors and fins were looking washed out but are already back to normal.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Ok I just tested again this morning and here were my results:
Temp- 77.2; pH- 7.0; Ammonia- .25 ppm; Nitrite- 5.0 ppm; Nitrate- 160 ppm This is without any water changes since 2/4. I'll perform another water change today and see if that helps.
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46 Gal Bowfront: It has fish.... Please don't post things in my thread that could get it locked, It is NOT appreciated. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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looking much better, Dont be sorry, EVERYONE of has issues now again, you recognized your problems and are doing something about it, you came to the right place and got some good advice and now things are headed in the right direction.
I only asked how you clean your filter because I myself was doing it wrong most of my fish keeping life. When I cleaned it I used to run under cold water not thinking that I was killing all my bacteria, (such a Duh). Like I said we all screw up now and again IMO I think your ammonia spike might be do to dead fish they start rotting as soon as they die and even only 5 hours in there can produce alot of ammonia. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Alright! I just finished another round of testing and here are the results:
02/07: Temp- 75.6; pH- 7.0; Ammonia- 0 ppm; Nitrite- 0 ppm; Nitrate- 160 ppm; Corrective Measures- Beginning lighter feeding regimine I think i'm almost there! I'm not sure the Nitrates are where they should be yet but the ammonia and nitrites are better. The tank is looking much clearer and all of the fish are moving around quite happily. I'll continue weekly testing from now on to keep my levels in check. Thank you to everyone for your help and support.
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46 Gal Bowfront: It has fish.... Please don't post things in my thread that could get it locked, It is NOT appreciated. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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looks good, you just want them nitrates down to like 40 or so, I actually skip a day or two a week of feeding, they wont starve. or yea feed real light.
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#19 (permalink) |
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HOw do I remove the Nitrates? Will water changes take care of it or something else?
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#20 (permalink) |
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Yes, I'd do two or three 50% water changes every 2 or 3 days until the readings are below 20ppm. Every 50% change will cut the nitrates in half (assuming your water supply doesn't have any). Then, follow the feeding advice above and do a 30-50% change weekly with a good dechlorinator.
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