This is the third time. I now know what the problem is.

The top frame of my 55 gallon is broke again. It snaps on the middle cross bar. I have figured out that it is the weight of the lids pushing down on the middle rail. need to get new lids.

Here is the question. How do I fix this with out draining the tank empy, and having to start the cycle all over again? right now I have a ratchet strap around it to keep it from blowing completely out.

This is what I'm thinking,

1. order a new top frame and different lid.
2. drain the tank about halfway, into new unused buckets.
3. place filter media and fish in the bucket. (this tank is cycling so there are only 4 fish)
4. put a bubbler, heater, and a small HOB filter in the bucket with the fish.
5. place a 2x4 across the front and back of the tank, extending past the edges.
6. ratchet strap both ends of the 2x4s to keep the tank from bowing out.
7. remove broken top frame.
8. put aquarium sealant in the new frame and put it in place. let it dry for a few hours.
9. leave the ratchet straps in place and add a couple from top to bottom to keep the new frame from coming up off the top.
10. refill the aquarium enough to get the tubes from the HOB fillters submerged.
11. restart tank.
12. allow the tank to run with minimal water for a couple days so the sealant can cure and then fill it the rest of the way up.

Think it will work? any other thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

As long as you keep the filter media wet and nourished with the fish, it should be fine. Keeping the bacteria in the substrate wet while you work will be OK, too. The nitrifying bacteria take a number of days to wind down even when not "fed." I think your cycle might be slowed a tad, but certainly not start over.

another thought.

How low do i really need to take the water?

As long as i have the tank braced on all sidesso it cant blow out, maybe I can get away with taking the water down to a few inches below the top frame.

things to consider:

the fumes from the sealant getting in the water.
the sealant not being able to set up due to the moisture.
being able to put the HOB filters bac on the new top.


If I keep the 2x4 braces about 6 inces below the top, it will allow me enough room to put the filters back on. if I keep the water level 3 or 4 inces blow the new frame it will allow the intake tubes and heaters to remain submerged. hopefully the water dosent splash much and get the sealant wet and that will leave enough room for the fumes to dissipate without effecting the water.

Other than a bucket of water to keep the fish in, you do not need to worry about saving the water. benificial bacteria doesnt live in the water column.

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repair is done.

drained 1/2 the water and removed filters, heater, air hose...



cut two 2x4s a half inch shorter than the length of the tank. placed the boards on front and back and wrapped a ratchet strap all the way around. just keeping snug enough to keep the tank square and not blow apart.




removed broken frame and all old sealant, being careful not to let any flakes fall in the tank. ran a bead of sealant around the entire inside edge of the new frame as well as a smaller bead on the front and back where the cross brace is attached. placed new frame on tank and removed ratchet strap and 2x4s. put a strap at each end and 1 in the middle to keep the new frame from rising up off the tank.



refilled water to about 4 inches of the top. replaced heaters, filters, air stone and light. got everything back up and running in about 2 hours.



my concern was water splashing up into the new sealant nut this dosent appear to be happening. It did build up some condnsation for a bit but that has gone away. will leave the water down untill tomorrow night. at which time I will do another water change replace the background and fill back up to the top.