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#1 (permalink) |
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Semi-newb
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Ok so around last week my tanks ph dropped down to 6.6, i was two days behind my usual change time and all my fish seemed fine but when i went to check both of my apple snails were dead! so i went and got some nutreul regulator (sp?) and then changed my tank over. a few days later i went and got a black mystery snail, he had a calcium deficiancy (i think) because he had holes through the back of his shell. So i read up online that i could use medical superglue (new-skin) and either more shell or plastic to cover it. so i dremeled out one of the old apple snail shells and used the new-skin to attach it to him and hes been active and fine since, but today i looked into my tank when i woke up and he had a white fluff surronding the new shell piece so i took him out and gently rinsed it off, the new shell stayed firm and i got the gook off, i was wondering if anyone else has come across this or had to repair a shell, and really any info would help thanks!
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#2 (permalink) |
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Semi-newb
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Sorry also i keep my tank at 7.6 to keep all the creatures happy.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Semi-newb
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Ok seems im the only one so far with this issue and the fluffs there again so heres what i think. Theres two possabilaties, because its not an algea or mold so: either the new skin is leaking through the shell (idk how though) and because its semi permeable its sticking there and forming a puff. Or my ACF has been shedding so maybe its a layer of frog skin that floated over and got caught on the edges of the new shell. Opinions?
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#4 (permalink) |
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ADV TankSeperationAnxity
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I blieve snails get mucasy when they are creating new shell, I also believe they do it as protection against harmful conditions. I would check your wanter parameters possibly do a WC and then check them again. also may want to check and make sure there's enough calcium for the snail to support new shell growth.
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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Semi-newb
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Thats nifty and interesting, my ph is still at 7.6 i dont have a gh or kh (i think those are the abreviations idk) tests and i have no clue how to check for calcium. Ill look up about the mucus though as that does sound like a good leed, any suggestions on testing for calcium lvls?
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#6 (permalink) |
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ADV TankSeperationAnxity
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How are you testing your PH? You should have tests for ammonia, nitrate nitrite, hardness, clorine, alkalinity liquid tests are more accurate but the quick test strips work in a pinch.
As for calcium, I don't know how to test for that but if your not adding it it's probably not there or very limited.
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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Semi-newb
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Im using a liquid Api ph test kit, and as for the others have been so far unable to locate the test kits locally and until im a little less broke dont have the option of purchasing one online. Ok so calcium is def an isue then and ill do my best to rectify the problem. Thank you
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