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#1 (permalink) |
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So I finally got all the pieces for my DIY sump that I am going to use for my 75 gallon tank and I figured I would actually see how the 29 gallon tank I am planning on using for the sump will actually fit into the stand. *Facepalm*... I can't get the stupid tank into the stand from the front and the back is inaccessible due to the wall that is behind the tank. Short of tearing down the tank and moving it away from the wall to check and see if it will go in from the backside is not really something I want to do obviously because The 29 most likely wont fit in the stand that way either. I am extremely aggravated and am not thinking of very logical answers at the moment. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Sigh... At this point I am ready to just kick out the center brace between the stand doors and set it in that way.
It honestly is not that huge of a deal that the 29 gallon won't fit under there because it is actually part of a full set up that I have. I think I am just going to call the $13 sheet of plexiglass I had cut yesterday extra scrap. I am leaning towards using a couple of Sterilite storage bins instead. I have been scouring youtube the last week or so and have seen many sumps based on those. the only issue I see with a sump made from storage bins is fabricating a bubble trap.
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#3 (permalink) |
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I was completely kidding about kicking out the center support. My tank and stand would both be trash if I did that.
I am going with an open system. I guess I should have said a wet/dry filter instead of a sump. I saw one that was made from 2 smaller bins that were piped together with a 2-3" pipe. Up until I realized that the 29 would not fit I had planned on having my bio media in one of those white 3 drawer systems that you buy at Wal-Mart and have it filter down through that first. I am still planning on using that for the media. It's the next stage of the filter that I am not so sure about. I think that as long as I don't get to carried away and make it more complex than it needs to be that should work for my tank.
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#4 (permalink) |
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set the sump on the floor besides the tank or on a stand so it is lower then the display.
then make a display refugium. You may just find out visitors are as interested in the plants, algae, pods, and so forth that are in the refugium. my .02
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I think I have solved my problem though. I am going to scrap the plans to use my 29 gallon tank and use 2 storage bins that I forgot about and were empty. I did check this time, and they do fit nicely under my tank. I am not planning on having a huge amount of water in them at any given time. They are only going to raise my water volume by 15 - 20 gallons. I have not had much time to experiment with it yet since I found them right before I had to leave for work. There will be ample room for overflow in case of a power outage so that is not an issue. I will have to wait to get home to start playing with different configurations.
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#6 (permalink) |
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I almost ran into this back when I was going with a big wet/dry for my one of my 125s. I had measured underneath one, but was buying for my 2nd one. When I got it, I was surprised that it wasn't going to go through the front like I had hoped. Although it arrived damaged and decided not to use one, I had come up with a plan to remove the end pieces that are in between the corner pieces on my stand. This would have have given me the room I needed to just slide it in the end of the stand. I had planned to do about an 80% water change to reduce the weight, which would drop the weight about 650lbs, and it would have worked. You could remove the center brace if you put in two braces on each side of it, temporary of course. Just make sure that the width of the two pieces are positioned wide enough to give you the room you need.
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#7 (permalink) |
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That sounds good in theory, but my carpentry skill are a bit lacking. one of many things would happen if I attempted this,
1. The stand would collapse. 2. The tank would shatter. 3. The tank would fall and crush me. 4. I would end up breaking the stand in the process. 5. my wife would go into labor and stop me in the middle of the project, and when I was able to get beck to it the cats would have jumped up on the tank and ended up knocking it over due to the lack of support under it. 6. Any combination of the above scenarios. I think anything involving draining the tank is out of the question at the moment due to my lack of willingness to get "to involved" with this project at the moment. Although all the suggestions that you all have given me are good ones, none of which I would have thought of on my own, are just to much for me to deal with right now.
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#8 (permalink) |
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to use two storage bins I would recommend the sump one be a small foot print to the water level change per gallon is much more. that would make adjustments much easier.
And (of course) the container that drains into the sump should be maintained at a more or less constant level with an overflow. I recommend that because I used a storage container on my 55g crammed in for and aft sticking out the back of the stand. I found I had to maintain a much lower level when adjusted. So having that drain into a sump allows the refugium area to remain at a much higher level so more macros can be grown. my .02
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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While I am thinking about it... Is there a way to set up the pump to be able to shut it off if it runs dry and prevent it from burning up?
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#10 (permalink) |
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there are water level sensors that can turn off the pump.
I do not recommend and adjustment valves in return or drains for flow control. You pump should be able to go full blast and the drain handle that. Some do use valves on the return to divert some of the flow back to the sump as a means of limiting the return flow. But generally that is not necessary. Others do use a drain valve to quiet the system down but a proper return (durso type or water traps) should be quiet. when adjusting I found rather quickly about power outage and return and the reverse siphon through the return lines. But it took a couple of floods before I learned about the pump running out of water before the display floods when I had overflow/drain failures. If you do use level sensors make sure then run off of DC not AC. Ac creates a shock hazard but not DC. Which is the reason you can lay a finger over an electric train track and not get shocked. so use the level sensor for fire a DC actuated relay that remotley controls the pump power. my .02
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Could you link to an example of a DC sensor? I have no idea what to even look for as far as that goes?
The reason I am planning on putting a valve on the sump intake is because I am one of those "over the top" kind of guys that has to make everything bigger than it needs to be, including overflows.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Your return nozzle should have a pin-hole that is about 2" into your tank. Once the water level gets below that, return siphon is broken. It should be dam near impossible to overflow your sump. This is some of the testing you have to do though when you initially set it up. In a power loss, siphon has to be broken and when power comes back up, flow has to restart into your overflow box. Get that happening and you should never have a problem. Float switch is a good idea.
Also, I drained down my 75g to move to an opposite wall a while back. Wasn't very hard to move with one other person and I didn't even remove fish. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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That is definitely something I need to add to my checklist. I would have completely overlooked the return siphon issue until it happened.
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#14 (permalink) | |
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But you can buy float valves on line and very inexpensive. They just close contacts at some water level. My concern is that people would and have just connected the pump power through that float valve which would be very dangerous. When setting it up I would use a relay whose coil is dc powered to control the ac power through the contacts to the pump itself. Obviosly remote from the aquarium and water and higher then both. I guess the relay coil could be powered by batteries, a battery eliminator, or dc transformer/power supply. The last thing you need is 120vac in contact with the aquarium water! my .02 FWIW I little bit of history. Edison was an advocate of DC current and Westinghouse AC current. AC has the advantage of using transformers to step up or down the voltage. Edison was worried about the safety so to demonstrate the dangers of AC designed the electric chair for capital punisment. (which uses AC) ![]()
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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![]() my .02
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden |
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#16 (permalink) |
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I think you know the only real solution is to break down the tank and start over, hey its a hassle but anything else is really just a compromise. Good luck
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Chris ¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> `·.¸¸..·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> |
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#17 (permalink) |
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That's definitely not going to happen. I have zero desire to tear down my tank to ultimately save $15.
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#18 (permalink) |
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LOL, put the return above your water level and your tank level would have to be 4-5" below the rim or make a mess with the return power of the pump, or both. Most U-tubes have a pin-hole already in them to break the syphon, once the water level gets down low enough from the sump filling up. One like this...Aquarium Plumbing: Directional U-Tube
If you're looking for a simple inexpensive float switch, try here: AutoTopoff.com No need to make it difficult or have to spend so many hours searching for what you need for pieces parts. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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I am actually considering using a spray bar anyway, so I don't know it i will even need to drill a siphon break at this point. Right now I am still designing the sump portion of the system and have a pretty good idea of what is going into the tank, but I have not made any measurements except fiting the sump under the tank. I have a rough idea of how long the return line is going to have to be, but I am not sure how to incorporate the U-tube/spraybar. I was planning on just making a U-tube out of elbows and pipe. Is there a difference between doing it this way opposed to using a store bought U-tube?
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Your way is cheaper. ![]()
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden |
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