Ok, so I have many questions. I have researched and read plenty, but I still don't know exactly what route I am going to go.

I have a new 29 gallon oceanic biocube. I am currently set up with the way the system was standard built with the bioballs and standard filter, so this leads to my first few questions.

1. Why use bioballs? I have heard good and bad. What are other options. I have read about different mods that can be done. I need the easiest for a beginner. I used to have a 65 gal fish only setup but it was years ago and I am looking to go more reef this time. Also, I have heard good and bad regarding the protein skimmer. Opinions please?

About 10 days ago I added water I purchased from my trusted marine specialty store in Overland Park, KS, about 1-1.5 inches of live sand, and about 15 lbs of live rock. I will be adding about 15 more lbs very soon.

Here is the fish lineup I am considering.
firegoby
clown goby
clown fish
royal gramma
yellowtail damsel (last of course since they are the most territorial)

I want to go cheap on the fish as I do not care as much about them but do want a good color variety.

I have also considered just all damsels.

Opinions please?

Also is it better to add them all at once or one at a time?

I do want invertebrates as well. I am thinking just a generic reef cleaner pack at first, but would also like to eventually add a lobster, fireshrimp, and a pretty starfish. Recommendations?

As far as corals go I am clueless. I have no idea where to start. I have been advised against anemones in this size tank & I do not want sponges as to avoid invertes eating them. I only have the standard lighting with the 36 watt CF's. Is there a way to upgrade to HQI eventually with this tank? What about gargonians? I have always thought they add a lot to a small tank. Please add as many suggestions as possible in the coral/reef area and when and how to add please.

I have testing kits for amonia, ph, nitrates, nitrites, and phosphates. But, how do I tell the bacteria and protein levels. Also what is and how do I test for specific gravity?

Future thanks for the help...I know I had a lot of questions

Hope things are goin well with the new tank.
1) bioballs arent needed and have to be cleaned if you used them. I've inserted live rock in place of my bio-balls on my HOB. They wont have to be cleaned and will add to your live rock load in your tank.

Be sure not to add fish until all your live rock has cured. When you add the second batch, you'll go through another cycle. So be aware.

For the fish, make sure you get some that wont get large or see if your LFS will trade you for them if they do. Too many fish in your tank will require the need for a lot of filtration. You may think about going with more live rock than 30 lbs for your 29 gallon. I purchased about 28 lbs for my 20 gallon. It will help with your filtration immensly.

Dont add all the fish at the same time as it will cause another spike in your ammonia and nitrites. Add them one at a time and be sure to quarantine them in a seperate tank to be sure there are no bad parasites or diseases hitchhikink on the fish.

Your reef cleaner pack is a good choice, as for the others, its personal choice but be sure the things you get wont harass or kill your coral or fish you're planning on purchasing.

I'm currently lookin into coral as well as i'm gettin my sw tank under way. 36 watts is a bit too low for many. You may want to start out with some soft coral like xenia. I've heard they're easy to grow. I'm building an LED system for my tank and so far, it sounds like you dont need a whole lot of wattage for LED's. I heard by a person from reefbuilder.com say you can have about 1watt per gallon of high output LED lighting. Otherwise, you'll have to go to some high output t5's or some super bright halogens.

For specific gravity, you'll need to get a refractometer or a simple specific gravity tester from your LFS. the previous is quite a bit cheaper and works well enough. You'll have to ask someone else about the protein and bacterial levels for i do not know.
Hope this helps!

Oh, after you get your cleaning crew in place and your tested levels are good again, thats when you can begin adding coral. I hear adding coral should be done before fish and fish should be added 3 or so months down the road to make sure everything is established well as they are a fair amount more sensitive to changes than the corals are.

I do have one damsel in there right now, but that is just for the cycling process. He is not for keeping purposes. I am definitely going to go with your suggestion and remove the bio balls and replace with live rock rubble. I have read that from a few others and that makes the most sense to me for sure. Thanks for the help. So far so good. Damsel is still alive after 2 days. I figured he would croak almost immediately.

I have heard both as far as fish before cleaning crew and inverts. I still need a few more opinions on this one??? Anyone?

Thanks again

Oh, and I should have clarified that I have 2 36 watt bulbs for a total of 72. 1 is actinic and one is not.

I can see why you'd put that type of fish in before anything else but when you start thinking about those $50 fish, i'd wait. What type of lighting is that in your tank? T5, T12, CFL? You'll definately need some 10,000K bulbs and that actinic. Coral do best with those bulbs due to thier evolution adapting to those wavelenths. With the flourescents, be sure to change them out every 6-9 months because they lose brightness and output after that long. The cleaning crew will help get rid of old stuff on your live rock so add them when the levels go down far enough. I was suprised that my cycle seems to have ended already. Got past the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate spikes and now have a seeminly stable low nitrate count. Looks like it may be time for some life!

You may have to increase your lighting though. Possibly double it for some LPS and triple it for SPS.

Thanks Phys. the way the initial lighting setup is on a 29 g biocube are 2 sets of double bulbs. 1 is a 10,000 k 16" 36 watt and 1 is the same but actinic. They are CF bulbs. I have heard they are great for LPS but not sufficient at all for SPS which is competely fine with me. I am afraid to delve to far into the reef world yet. I will be taking it slow for sure.

I think that should suffice for LPS right now. Be sure to watch the coral carefully to make sure it doesnt degrade. If it does, find more lighting. (if thats the reason). You could get a "stunner strip" of LED's to add some extra lighting that way. I've been told they do quite well.