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#1 (permalink) |
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Hello,
Been looking for answers on sumps. Couldn't find anything. I don't want to drill any holes. Is it possible to buy two identical pumps and just pump water to and from your sump. I see others use gravity and siphons, but no mention of just pumping. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks |
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#2 (permalink) |
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update.
If you don't suggest using two pumps, do you know of any cheap places to get pre fabricated over/wall overflow Last edited by momiester2 : 07-12-2011 at 12:23 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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It is not a problem if both pumps are rated the same ie 40 gph and 40 gph you can also add a pre-filter and a sump can be one of the best filtration systems you can have..
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#4 (permalink) |
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Use a hang on the back overflow. And you would still only need one pump
CPR CS100 SIPHON AQUARIUM OVERFLOW BOX by CPR Aquatic - AquaCave This is just an example there is a PVC overflow on this site, I've never used it myself but from what I have heard it works well. I hope this helps. What size is the tank?
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#5 (permalink) |
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main tank is 20 gal, and sump will be a 10 gal.
I got to thinking using two pumps would not be smart,if one pump went out I would have a major flood, and i don't like floods lol. I purchased Eshopps Overflow Boxes PF-Nano (rated at 200 gph)and Maxi-Jet Submersible Utility Pumps Model 900 (rated at 247 gph, but can adjust down to 200) hope this works. If my math is correct, and I sort of know what i'm doing then this will give me 10 times turnover per hour. With this setup, no flooding, if the pump goes out or power loss, then no more water down the overflow! Any comments? |
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#6 (permalink) |
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ADV TankSeperationAnxity
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Incorrect, if the return line is blow the surface of the main tank it will siphon backwards into the sump. You need to make an air hole in the line for the pump at a level that will break the back siphon of the return line.
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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Where would the air hole need to be, and do you know of a schematic on it. I can't picture this in my head, because to me if i had an airhole, then when the pump was working correctly, water would leak through the hole..
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#8 (permalink) |
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ADV TankSeperationAnxity
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The air hole should be about a half an inch under the desirded water level or however deep if can go with out overflowing the sump. It can also serve as a remind to top your tank off if you see or hear the water shooting out the air hole.
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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel |
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#9 (permalink) |
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oh ok think i gotcha. 1/2 an inch below water line in main tank, that way if pump does go out a back siphon will occur but when it reaches air hole, it will stop. Perfect, thanks for the help, its weird the things you don't think about until tragedy happens, like 20 gallons of sea water on my floor lol..
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#10 (permalink) |
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ADV TankSeperationAnxity
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Crap drawning but here you go.
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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel |
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#12 (permalink) |
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First never use two pumps. You will never get them balanced. Pump only from the sump the the highest container (usually your display tank).
second I highly recommend you buy a couple of $10 plastic containers or even just use a couple of wastbaskets and build a test setup. that way you can play around and make adjustments without risking a flood in your tank setup. Adjustments: 1) power out---- no sump flood. 2) power return--- normal operation returns 3) overflow/drain failure---- sump runs dry before upper container floods. my .02
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden |
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#13 (permalink) |
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i have been using this pre filter sump system with no problems
pump stops siphon stops mine is all home made crystal clear water |
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#14 (permalink) |
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+1
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#15 (permalink) | |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Ok hopefully I have everything down, got my sump baffles completed, swithed everything to a bigger tank (20 gal), and used my original tank (10 gal) as a sump/refugium. Here are some pictures of my progress so far. FYI i know that i need more live rock in main tank, going to get some today, and maintank is almost cycled. Quick question, will adding some more live sand and live rock prolong my cycle. Last reading was PH 8.2, Ammonia between 0-.25, Nitrate 20, and Nitrite between 0-.25. But i did add almost 8 more gallons of water by moving to a bigger tank, which should lower nitrates. I am still waiting for an overflow and pump to test before starting the sump/refugium.
My new 20 gal My sump started Last edited by momiester2 : 07-20-2011 at 09:28 AM. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Good start... If you add cured live from this point on it won't make much difference because you still have readings of Ammonia between 0-.25, Nitrate 20, and Nitrite between 0-.25.(still cycling though) When you add all of your live rock wait a few days and test again then judge accordingly.
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#18 (permalink) | |
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As water flows to one container it comes from the other. The key IMHO is to insure that flow stops before the container floods. so you stop the draining through the overflow before the sump floods, break up the reverse siphon (add air to the return lines),stop the pumping (pump intake level) if the overflow fails. my .02
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden Last edited by beaslbob : 07-22-2011 at 12:20 PM. |
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#20 (permalink) |
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I have to agree with Bob here because backups fail to. Every tank that runs a sump system should have a fail safe, so no matter what your tank and sump will never overflow.
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