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Welcome to the Aquarium Forum forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast and simple so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
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#1 (permalink) |
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Basically ive just setup my aquarium its been running over a week and yesterday I put some plants in crypts and ferns then yesterday nigh I put my fish in 12 guppies and a clown loach (already know he is gonna get big) and the water has started turning yellow whats that all about.
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#2 (permalink) |
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....has no life....
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How big is this tank and why so many fish at once? Sounds like way too many? Why was it left to run over a week? Do you have test equipment?
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
If your tank's only been running a week, then it's not cycled. The yellow water is fish waste because there's not enough beneficial bacteria to use it. Test your water, your ammonia and nitrite readings are probably through the roof, they're high! You'll need to do a water change right away. You can cycle a tank using fish, but you need to add just a few and test the water chemistry daily. When you have a trace of ammonia or nitrites in the water, you need to remove and replace 25 to 30 percent of the water to get the water chemistry back into the "safe zone". You need to keep doing this until the ammonia and nitrites consistently read "0". Then, you can safely add a few more fish. You'll need to follow this routine until the tank is fully stocked. B
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#4 (permalink) |
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Its 46l /12gallon I introduced the fish in 3 stages over an hour and half floating bags leaving then introducing then leaving then floating next batch etc I left it to run for a week cos thats what I was told to do to allow the filter to build up bacteria and filter out any nasty things in the tank and gravel.
Just did a quick test only got strips at the moment and they said all ok accept my NO3 is on the limit. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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....has no life....
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There is a misunderstanding out there evidentally that says if you run a tank for a certain period it will somehow grow the beneficial bacteria needed to make your tank safe. Your tank has to go through the nitrogen cycle. If you have not heard of this before, you really should read a quick article on what it is so you know what your tank will be going through. The nitrogen cycle does not start until a fish or another ammonia source is added and takes 3-6wks to complete.
From no fish, to overstocked. You have two major problems.....you have an uncycled tank and it is overstocked from day one. 1-2 fish would have been the better choice until the nitrogen cycle has been gone through and then add no more than 1 fish per week (based off of your tank size). You have a ticking time bomb and you will probably need to do near 50% water changes for the next month or so in order to keep all of those fish alive. I would see if you can return some. Also, get rid of strips and try to get a liquid test set. The strips don't give you finite enough info for a cycling tank and are also very well known for being inaccurate. You need to be able to track your ammonia and nitrite levels pretty closely. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Returning isnt an option cos the old tank is now in the skip and tbh im not to worried about the fish cos the last couple months they have been living in worse which was one reason I upgraded my worry is the plants cos they already dont look to happy but il do a 25% water change later then do it again every 2-3 days maybe does that sound ok or to much
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#7 (permalink) | |
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The thing that a lot of people don't understand is that the filter is an extension of your tank. The water in the filter is all part of the total water volume and everything sucked "out" of your tank is still "in" your tank: fish waste, uneaten food, plant debris... The filter CAN "scrub" your water and remove large and fine particles to brighten your water, but the main purpose of all that filter media is to provide lots of surface area for beneficial (nitrifying) bacteria to grow and lots of surface area for contaminated water to come into contact with this bacteria. Until you have this important balance of bacteria established, your filter really isn't cleaning your water. If may make it look a little more clear if there is debris floating around, but ammonia and other toxins are soluble and clear and undetectable without a good quality test kit. Having said this, I'm wondering if any of your ornaments, gravel, plants or filter media came from the other tank you upgraded from. If so, did they go straight from one tank to another without being rinsed in tap water or allowed to dry? If they did, this could be good news for you because they probably contain some nitrifying bacteria still which could jump start your cycle. Still, that would only be a start and I would still advise daily testing for ammonia and nitrite and water changes accordingly to keep them as close to 0 as possible. Ammonia is going to be the first to rise dangerously high and you will need to do 30%-50% water changes if it goes up to 0.25-0.5 ppm. It may end up being a lot of work, but if you are diligent you may get by without too many losses. Good luck to you, and I hope you don't feel like you are being chastised... I have learned this stuff the hard way but a lot of people on this forum have helped me out a great deal and I have started to have a lot of fun and success with the hobby. ![]()
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10 g planted community, 10 gallon danio/RCS tank, 10 g ghost shrimp grow out tank, 10 g blue pearl shrimp tank, 75 g in the works. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Unfortunately the only thing from the old tank was the heating element which I washed off dried and fitted guess as you said il have to test and change as suited.
And no dont feel chastised I joined so I could be more informed its easy to say read this or that but most facts are put in term for people who already know what there doing where as threads like this encourage people to inform in a more specific sense and from experience which I find more useful so thansk for everyones input and keep it coming. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Oh, that's too bad. Any chance you have a friend with an established tank that could give you a good scoop of their gravel or some used filter media? If you can get some and put it in your filter that will help, or if it won't fit you can put it in an area of your tank that gets good water flow.
Other than that, I would make it a priority to get yourself an API freshwater master test kit. It will have the basic liquid test kits to get you started. For now ammonia and nitrite are the ones you're going to have to watch the closest, especially ammonia in the beginning. Keep up on those water changes and if you have any emergencies you can always try the chat feature. I have had so much one on one advice given to me on there by some really great, patient, experienced aquarists.... Plus we have lots of fun on there besides. ![]()
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10 g planted community, 10 gallon danio/RCS tank, 10 g ghost shrimp grow out tank, 10 g blue pearl shrimp tank, 75 g in the works. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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My old pump/filter is a universal type would it help if I chucked that in and run it up the only thing is I replaced the filter about 2 weeks back before I decided to change so im assuming it wont have the build up either.
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#11 (permalink) |
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Well just did a water change about a 1/3 got a bit carried away and I stuck my old filter pump in and thats running away along with the other main filter and pump.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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I've been advised to change my filter media as little as possible, regardless of what the manufacturer recommendations are. If it gets gummed up you can take it out and rinse it in used tank water (not tap) and put it back in. Most of my experienced fishkeeping friends tell me they don't change their filter media until it is falling apart. I used to worry about doing that because I knew the carbon would be depleted but I am told that carbon is not really needed in a healthy tank.
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10 g planted community, 10 gallon danio/RCS tank, 10 g ghost shrimp grow out tank, 10 g blue pearl shrimp tank, 75 g in the works. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Yeah I hadnt changed the filter in a couple years just washed it then read it needed changing every 2 months which I thought was strange.
Anyway it wasnt dry cos it only came out the water this morning so fingers crossed. Also whats a good tank temp. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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What kind of fish are ya keeping again?
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12 Tanks, 900 gallons. Discus/Angels/Malawi/Lake Victorias. Just added a 135 & 2 - 29's.. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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12 guppies and a clown loach (and knows the loach will get big).
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10 g planted community, 10 gallon danio/RCS tank, 10 g ghost shrimp grow out tank, 10 g blue pearl shrimp tank, 75 g in the works. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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What He Said /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
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#17 (permalink) |
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So how are things going now? How are your levels and fish doing?
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10 g planted community, 10 gallon danio/RCS tank, 10 g ghost shrimp grow out tank, 10 g blue pearl shrimp tank, 75 g in the works. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Fish are fine loach is still pacing alot still changing my water alot although the tests seem ok think I need an airstone or somthing cos the fish spend alot of time near the top sucking on bubbles.
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#19 (permalink) |
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Hmm.... They shouldn't need an air stone if the filter output is good and agitates the surface of the water well. What are your levels at? I think high ammonia or nitrites or at high enough levels even high nitrates can interfere with normal gill function...
Does your loach have a cave to hide in?
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10 g planted community, 10 gallon danio/RCS tank, 10 g ghost shrimp grow out tank, 10 g blue pearl shrimp tank, 75 g in the works. |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Try adding some anacharis, killing the lights and stop adding food for a few days wo it will clear up and rebalance. then continue with less lighting and less food. FWIW I let my new planted tanks run fishless for a week. then add 1 fish and not add food for the first week. Then stock up and start feeding 1-2 flakes per day. If after a few days the fish are breathing heavy and lying on the bottom you will lose those fish. I always lost the first fish on the 5th day just like clockwork when I fed the fish. When I did not add food it lived. my .02
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden |
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