Yes I tested everything in the master kit.

PH Low: 7.6(?)
PH High: 7.8(?)
Ammonia: 0-.25
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
GH:300
KH:75

This doesn't seem right.

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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel

What doesn't seem right?

Need a lot more information.

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30G planted aquarium with Aquaclear 50 and two Aquaclear 20s. 7 Cherry Barbs, 12 Cardinal Tetras, 1 Albino Bristlenose Pleco, 1 Golden Honey Gourami, and a handful of Ghost Shrimp.

Well I don't understand why ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate would read 0? Or why my KH is so low.

I mean do those parameters seem about right for a planted FW tank?

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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel

Still need more information. Size, how long has it been running, how many/what kind of fish, has it been cycled or is currently being cycled, how was it cycled, etc etc. Also how planted is 'planted?'

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30G planted aquarium with Aquaclear 50 and two Aquaclear 20s. 7 Cherry Barbs, 12 Cardinal Tetras, 1 Albino Bristlenose Pleco, 1 Golden Honey Gourami, and a handful of Ghost Shrimp.

100 Gallon Tank has been runing for over a month, started out with fish that came with the tank which died. Drained 75% of the water refilled added started with a fishless cycle adding a little food everyday. Had a problem in one of my other tanks so I moved all the fish (11 african cichlids) to this tank. slowly I wound up combining all my smaller tanks into this one. Current stocking is 26 fish (2 guppies, 1 dinosaur bichir, 1 dojo loach, 2 chinese algea eaters, 3 mollies, 6 rainbow fish, 11 african cichlids). Bought an API Master FW kit yesterday and figure I would see how off the dip strips were since my water was staying cloudy.

Here are pictures of the planted tank.

Amazon Sword, Crypto Balenese, Java Fern, Java Moss, Ludwig Repeans, Mondo(?), MISC clipping.

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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel

The ammonia and nitrite levels seem to be accurate. The pH is within the high 7's which is generally okay for most fish, and I don't know too much about KH and the like so I won't comment. However the nitrates can be explained a few ways..

I don't think you have enough plants for them to have consumed all of the nitrates but because you did a lot of water changes the levels should be pretty low. However a false-low reading can occur with the API kit if the kit is expired (look at the number on each individual bottle - the last 4 digits represent the month/year in which it was produced, the nitrate bottles I believe last 2-3 years) or if the # 2 bottle isn't properly mixed before doing the test. The instructions in the kit say to shake the bottle for a minimum of 30 seconds but if the bottle has been sitting around for longer than a week it is often necessary to bang the bottle against a hard surface a few times while vigorously shaking it for 2-3 minutes as one of the substances in the bottle wants to solidify and if it isn't properly mixed readings will be lower than what the nitrate levels actually are.

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30G planted aquarium with Aquaclear 50 and two Aquaclear 20s. 7 Cherry Barbs, 12 Cardinal Tetras, 1 Albino Bristlenose Pleco, 1 Golden Honey Gourami, and a handful of Ghost Shrimp.

Well according to the date it was manufacturered in 2008.

Tests today.


PH High: 7.4
Ammonia: 0 - <.25
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 10 - 20
GH: 268
KH: 161

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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel

10-20 seems more accurate, you also might want to consider buying a new kit as that bottle is probably close to expiring if not already expired.

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30G planted aquarium with Aquaclear 50 and two Aquaclear 20s. 7 Cherry Barbs, 12 Cardinal Tetras, 1 Albino Bristlenose Pleco, 1 Golden Honey Gourami, and a handful of Ghost Shrimp.

Which data is strip data? KH/GH only?

A lot of people have said how their ammonia test always shows some low reading. I used to experience the same thing, but I got to the bottom of why it was happening. My suggestion is to stop feeding for 3-5 days and see if it goes away. If it does, then you're overfeeding or your filter is inadequate for the bio-load. Forget that you have plants and they should be consuming the ammonia....I've had a tank slammed full of plants (mostly Wisteria and Java Moss) and still showed ammonia from me overfeeding and I had a pretty heavy bio-load (85+ in a 75g).

Yeah, I've cut back on the feeding already. Once a day for most part, and the ammount of light to clear up the cloudyness. It's looking a lot better just not sure why my Mitrate are low. I did just replace the filter completely the other day.

everyone seems happy, I'll just keep testing to see what happens.

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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel

Well...the filter change could have caused it. You didn't say you did that.

Yeah forgot about that.

And no of the data is from test strips I just bought the master FW kit yesterday. Odd that if they expire that they don't note it right on the outside packaging.

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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel

Don't kow but he's always got some good information when he replies.

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100G->African Cichlids:Kribensis-2,Bumblebee-2,Red Zebra-2,Elec. Yel. Labi.-2, Acei-2, Elec. Blu. Johanni-2,Peacocks-2 / Community: Australian Rainbow-3,Turquoise Rainbow-4,Dalmatian Mollies-2,white molly-1,Dojo Loaches-1/Cleaners:Chinese Algea Eaters-5/Murderers: Dinosaur Bichir-1And lots of other tanks,2-Gourims,6-Rams,1-Arrowanna,6-FW Flounder,1-Farlowella CF, 1-Spiney Eel

Nice set up, but you look even more like a serial killer than I do.

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60 liter - Bronze, Habrosus and Panda Corys, Rasbora Maticulas, Neon Tetras, Marbled Hatchet fish, dwarf cherry, rhino and amano shrimp, assassin snails and damned pond snails

54 liter - Dwarf Redtailed Puffers, Garra Rufas and Garra Gotyla and more pond snails

45 liter - Still cycling. Crustations and Molluscs only