I am wondering if I can switch out my old Rena xp3 with another one. They have the quick-releases, I was just going to swap them. Anyone see a problem with that?

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125gal - 10" bala, 10" irridescent, 6 gourami's, 2 blood parrots, 1 common pleco, 1 Blue Lobster, & 1 Morimo Ball - Rena XP3
75gal - 5 balas, 2 firemouths, 2 albino oscars, 1 common pleco, 6" firemouth - Rena XP3

Well, if the tank is already cycled it will cause a minicycle. If you swap all of the media out, no problem. Why would you be doing that? Is the one you have not performing well? If it wasn't, I wouldn't replace it with another one but I don't much about them.

It's performing quite well, but I was going to put it on my other aquarium to try and speed up it's cycle it's going through. I don't know much about cycles or mini cycles, is there a place i can find good info on them?

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125gal - 10" bala, 10" irridescent, 6 gourami's, 2 blood parrots, 1 common pleco, 1 Blue Lobster, & 1 Morimo Ball - Rena XP3
75gal - 5 balas, 2 firemouths, 2 albino oscars, 1 common pleco, 6" firemouth - Rena XP3

Also I ask because my tank has been perfect with zero maintenance for 3 weeks since I put it together, with 12 fish. I can't help but wonder if I should be changing the filter or cleaning it in some way.

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125gal - 10" bala, 10" irridescent, 6 gourami's, 2 blood parrots, 1 common pleco, 1 Blue Lobster, & 1 Morimo Ball - Rena XP3
75gal - 5 balas, 2 firemouths, 2 albino oscars, 1 common pleco, 6" firemouth - Rena XP3

And feedings have been strange, trying to figure out how much to feed them. The aggressive fish always get to the food first, the less aggressive fish tend to miss out it seems, so I've been over-feeding just a bit, giving the other fish a chance to get something to eat.

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125gal - 10" bala, 10" irridescent, 6 gourami's, 2 blood parrots, 1 common pleco, 1 Blue Lobster, & 1 Morimo Ball - Rena XP3
75gal - 5 balas, 2 firemouths, 2 albino oscars, 1 common pleco, 6" firemouth - Rena XP3

Below is a fair explanation of cycles. A mini cycle occurs when there is an overload of bio-material introduced that exceeds the benificial bateria in the tank.

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Some call it the biological cycle, the nitrification process, new tank syndrome or even the start-up cycle. They all are referring to the same cycle - The Nitrogen Cycle. This very important cycle is the establishment of beneficial bacteria in the aquarium and in the filter media that will help in the conversion of ammonia to nitrite and then the conversion of nitrite to nitrates.

This process can take from 2 weeks to 2 months or longer to complete. The best way to monitor the nitrogen cycle is to purchase an aquarium test kit that will test for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and ph.
Test your aquarium water every day and write down your readings. You will first see ammonia levels rising. A few weeks or so later you should see the nitrite levels rising and the ammonia levels dropping. Finally, after a few more weeks you should see the nitrate levels rising and the nitrite levels dropping. When you no longer detect ammonia or nitrites but you can detect nitrates you can assume that it is safe to add your tropical fish.

Nitrogen Cycle Stages
Stage 1
Ammonia is introduced into the aquarium via tropical fish waste and uneaten food. The tropical fish waste and excess food will break down into either ionized ammonium (NH4) or un-ionized ammonia (NH3). Ammonium is not harmful to tropical fish but ammonia is. Whether the material turns into ammonium or ammonia depends on the ph level of the water. If the ph is under 7, you will have ammonium. If the ph is 7 or higher you will have ammonia.
Stage 2
Soon, bacteria called nitrosomonas will develop and they will oxidize the ammonia in the tank, essentially eliminating it. The byproduct of ammonia oxidation is Nitrites. So we no longer have ammonia in the tank, but we now have another toxin to deal with - Nitrites. Nitrites are just as toxic to tropical fish as ammonia. If you have a test kit, you should be able to see the nitrite levels rise around the end of the first or second week.
Stage 3
Bacteria called nitrobacter will develop and they will convert the nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are not as harmful to tropical fish as ammonia or nitrites, but nitrate is still harmful in large amounts. The quickest way to rid your aquarium of nitrates is to perform partial water changes. Once your tank is established you will need to monitor your tank water for high nitrate levels and perform partial water changes as necessary. There are other methods to control nitrates in aquariums besides water changes. For freshwater fish tanks, live aquarium plants will use up some of the nitrates. In saltwater fish tanks, live rock and deep sand beds can have anaerobic areas where denitrifying bacteria can breakdown nitrates into harmless nitrogen gas that escapes through the water surface of the aquarium.

Getting The Nitrogen Cycle Started
There are two ways to get the aquarium cycle started, either with fish or without fish.
Starting The Nitrogen Cycle With Fish
This is not the preferred way to get the nitrogen cycle started because the fish are being exposed to ammonia and nitrites during this process. Many fish can not and will not make it through the cycling process. Often times the fish become stressed and fish disease starts to break out. I wonder what percentage of disease is caused by the cycling of new aquariums?

Certain species are hardier than others and seem to tolerate the start-up cycle better than others. For freshwater tanks, the zebra danio is a very hardy fish that many use to get the nitrogen cycle started. For saltwater tanks, some have reported success using damselfish to get the process started. Again, using fish to cycle is not a good idea and you may be throwing your money (on dead fish) out the window. There is a better way.
Starting The Nitrogen Cycle Fishless
There are a few different ways to get this process started. To easily get an ammonia reading from your tank water try the Seachem Ammonia Alert. It sticks inside the tank and has a circle that changes color depending on the ammonia levels in the tank.
• Option 1:
Using Fish Food
Drop in a few flakes every 12 hours. As the food decomposes it will release ammonia. You will have to continue to "feed" the tank throughout the process to keep it going.
• Option 2:
Use a small piece of raw fish or a raw shrimp
Drop a 2 inch by 1 inch chunk of raw fish or a raw shrimp into the tank. As it decomposes it will release ammonia into the tank.
• Option 3:
Use 100% pure ammonia.
Using a dropper, add 5 drops of ammonia per 10 gallons of aquarium water. If you don't get an ammonia reading with your test kit, add some more drops until you start to see an ammonia reading. Keep track of how many drops you've used so you can repeat this process daily. Continue to dose the tank with ammonia until you start to get nitrite readings with your test kit. Once you can detect nitrites you should only add 3 drops of ammonia per 10 gallons of aquarium water, or if you added more drops originally to get an ammonia reading cut the amount of drops used in half. Continue this process daily until you get nitrate readings with your test kit. Do a 30% water change and your tank is ready.
• Option 4:
Use gravel and/or filter media from an established and cycled tank
This is the best and fastest way to go. This will seed the tank with all of the necessary bacteria for the nitrogen cycle. "Feed" the tank daily with flake food until you are getting nitrate readings. Depending on how fast you were able to get the gravel and filter media into your tank, you may be getting nitrate readings in only a day or two. There are some drawbacks to this method. Ask your source if they have recently used any copper medications in the tank. If they have and you are planning to have invertebrates in the tank you should probably not use this method. Invertebrates will not tolerate copper. Get a copper test kit to determine if it's safe to use.
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Once the cycle has started only add one or two fish at a time. Wait a couple of weeks before adding more fish. This will give your tank the time it needs to catch up with the increased bio-load.
Speeding Up the Cycling Process
There are things you can do to speed along the process of cycling your aquarium.
• Increase the temperature of your aquarium water to 80°F-82°F (27°C-28°C)
• Get some beneficial bacteria colonies. Borrow some gravel from an established and cycled aquarium. If you have another tank with an extra filter you can use it. If you have a really nice friend with an established and cycled aquarium, ask if you can have one of their used filter media. It will be loaded with the good bacteria that we are looking for.
• There are products on the market that claim to introduce the beneficial bacteria.

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60g tall, all artificial plants, Rainbow tank; 55g for African Cichlids. 20g long for fry; 20g hex, 2 black Angels at my desk; 10g planted, with 50 Molly fry; 10 gal, 2x 13w cfl lightning, planted; 2g hex for "Buddy the Betta"; Wanting a 200g +, MTS getting bad.

What you can do,is take one of the media baskets from the cycled XP3 and switch it into the uncycled one.This would basically be just like changing one of the media baskets when cleaning.

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http://bountifulbettas.blogspot.com/

"Come to the dark side....we have cookies...and filters/heaters/and water changes!"

Thanks much for the info, it's a lot clearer now.

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125gal - 10" bala, 10" irridescent, 6 gourami's, 2 blood parrots, 1 common pleco, 1 Blue Lobster, & 1 Morimo Ball - Rena XP3
75gal - 5 balas, 2 firemouths, 2 albino oscars, 1 common pleco, 6" firemouth - Rena XP3