Ok so when i started my 10 i used just RO water. Up until a few weeks ago i started to use tap water. After seeing tank get more algea and reading that high silcates in tap water help algea growth i went back to RO water. I since have noticed that the algea is getting under control again. But what im wondering since the RO removes pretty much all minerals and such from the process..is there something i need to get to add the good minerals back in. Ive read peopl say just use the RO...use RO and add a little tap water, use RO and get something like Seachems RO water conditioner.

Should i treat the RO wate or just add and let be. Even with the ro i add Jungles start right for the slime coat and dechlor even though no chlorine is in the RO water

Is your system a RODI or just RO? RODI nearly completely strips all minerals and leaves you with a 0 gh (general hardness). RO will strip some but usually not all. Do you have a gh test kit?

Seachem makes a product called equillibrium which your could use. There are also gh boosters out there available. You could just dose half the recommended if you didn't want to put back everything you pulled out.

i don have a system that takes it out. I buy it at the store. The ycall it drinking water but it states it goes thru RO, distilation, and some other things. I want the bad stuff out such as my tap water had, silicates and such but want the good stuff to stay or be added back.. ?I dont have a gh test kit

I started using RO when I got a Saltwater Tank a few years ago. I then started using it in my fresh water tanks, because I got tired of dumping all kinds of chemicals in my tank water. I noticed that my water was clearer and that it was easier to maintain. The fish seemed happier too. The only time I would put anything into the water was when I did a water change. If I was just filling up my tank to replace water that evaporated I add nothing. The water evaporates, but still leaves all the minerals in the tank. simply adding more RO water puts it back to where it was when it was full. When I do perform a water change I usually add a "little" bit of API Proper Ph. I have several different freshwater tanks, and have a different jar for each setup. they make 6.5, 7.0, 7.5, and 8.5. I also chose one "main" fish for each tank then picked out a few other species that could tollerate the "main fish's" water condition. Figure out where your fish are comfortable and buy the one that corresponds to your needs. There are plenty of other chemicals out there that do the same things. Other than that I really don't add much to the water. Hope this helps. Remember, you probably don't need to add as much as it tells you. Add little amounts until it is where you want it. Rapid steps hurt, small ones can be tolerated.

I also get mine from the Grocery Store. I'd have to look when I go back, but I believe on the outside of the machine it says that it does go through a DI filter. Not sure though.

I would advise against adding any PH additives. In nearly all cases, with the exception of a few condition sensitive fish (ex. Discus), there is no need. Most all fish will adapt to your water and adding chemicals to your tank just to add them, is bad practice overall.

The ph additives will not add back things that RO can have stripped out of it like calcium and magnesium - things your fish need.

This statement is absolute gospel as far as tanks are concerned. I would use the seachem equilibrium product it's got what the water dr ordered.

I don't know as I use tap water and live plants.

Sorry I couldn't help.











Or did I?


my .02

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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html
recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden