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#1 (permalink) |
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Hey all,
This may be a difficult question without a cut-and-dry answer, but I'm currently cycling a 55 gallon tank that has very hard water. I plan on keeping the angel I have in my current tank in the new tank; therefore, I need to adjust the water chemistry (Ugh). I'd used approx. 80% bottled spring water + tap for the few remaining gallons to hopefully avoid this problem, but alas. In addition, I've since added several large chunks of driftwood to the mix, but I'm assuming the wood won't make the dent that I need. Given that the driftwood effect is negligible I'm curious as to how much distilled water I should add to the tank to adjust the hardness? I'm unsure whether I should do a typical 25% water change using distilled water or whether I'd need a more drastic amount. Also, I'd really like to avoid using peat as I've heard it's a pain and also the more volatile water softening chemicals. Thanks in advance! Hopefully someone has this insight into this subject. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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....has no life....
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What are the gh/kh/ph of your tap water? Why do you feel you need to change it?
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#3 (permalink) |
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Wild betta tamer
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I wouldnt mess with it myself.The angel can acclimate to hard water.In Lawton my water was 8.4 out of the tap and I had angels who were happy with it,and even a Ram.My bettas bred in it as well.So as long as the water is stable,it should be fine.
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http://bountifulbettas.blogspot.com/ "Come to the dark side....we have cookies...and filters/heaters/and water changes!" |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Good to know. The municipal water here is particularly hard and I was worried that it might stress the angel. If it can acclimate then I'm happy.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Wild betta tamer
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He can indeed acclimate.The trick is to do it slow.The drip acclimation method works best for this.You place the fish with his current water in a bucket and slowly drip the new tank water into the bucket.Once you get the bucket about halfway filled,pour out half of that,and do it again.This time once its finished,net the fish and place in the tank.If yo have a dollar tree in your area,they have these small one gallon buckets which is perfect for drip acclimation.I use a airline,rigid tubing and a shut off valve for airlines to do mine.You can set the drip to whatever you feel is the best.Someone else also has a writeup here,where instead of the shut off valves,he tied a few loose knots in the tubing.Either way works fine,just dont forget you have it going.
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http://bountifulbettas.blogspot.com/ "Come to the dark side....we have cookies...and filters/heaters/and water changes!" |
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#6 (permalink) |
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I would use peat moss in the substrate.
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Still need to re-dip my municipal water since I don't remember the exact measurements on it. I'll update with that info when I get home. I was initially going to change it for the angel, but it seems the consensus it not to worry about it.
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#8 (permalink) |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Usually hard water also has a high ph. Dilluting it with distilled water will reduce its ph, as well as its hardness. I would mix a 1/2 gallon of distilled water with your hard tap water and check the harness and ph of the mixture. That will give you an idea of how much distilled water you need to add to reduce the hardness. If you are near a large Aquarium store ask for some black water tonic (a mixture of plant acids). This will help lower your ph.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
high pH is a direct result of the plants sucking out the carbon dioxide. As plants consume nitrates, they also return alk (KH). So those things are expected and it is hardly detrimental to the fish to have less carbon dioxide in the tank. I have found with my systems high pH even with a peat moss substrate. Like 8.4-8.8( purple) with api high range test kit. And fish the are reported as needing a pH of 6-7 (hachetfish, neons) lived for years. But with the peat moss kh stays at 4 degrees and gh ad 9 degrees for years. With a plain sand substrate both climbed to high levels after a year or two of operation. One sand tank had a kh of 19 degrees and a gh of over 36 degrees for instance. Neone didn't do will in that tank but the 30 guppies (6 reproducing adults) in the 10g had a stable population for about 9 years or so. my .02
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden |
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