I have been told here before that pH products to adjust it are bad, and that with things such as API pH down and up, it will rebound after treatment.

This product says that it will immediately adjust the pH to 7.0, and stabilize it, keeping it there. Any comments? does it work? I am currently using pH down, but I am thinking that this product may be better.

-Rip

Neutral regulators like API Proper pH and adjusters like pH Up and pH Down are all various forms of phosphate buffers - they work in the short term, but any natural buffers already existing in your tank like river stones, gravel, etc., will naturally bring the pH back to its original value. In addition, every time you add fresh water you must add new pH product.

What is your pH without any phosphate buffers in there, anyways?

Elevated levels of phosphates are also harmful to fish and plants. That, taken with the fact that most fish can handle a very broad range of pH (8.0-6.0 for the tough fish like zebra danios, etc.), is the reason many of us don't bother with adjusting our pH.

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Officially fishless until after the move....tune in later for details!

I have had mollies and guppies, and my pH was around 8.5, and they would not tolerate it. I am scrambling trying to get it down!

If you really need to lower your ph, the best way is with R/O water, but you will have to watch your ratios on water changes.

A ph that high shouldn't hurt mollies unless they weren't acclimated to it right. I have seen angels and tetras acclimated to a ph of 8.9 but it has to be done slowly. There is a sticky here in the forums about drip acclimating fish and that is probably the best way to do.

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SUCCESS IS MEASURED BY YEARS, NOT MONTHS!!!
220 Tank build
http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/sta...late-3253.html

that simply is not correct. my 10g had 30+ guppies with 1/2 dozen reproducing adults for 7+ years from the original cycle trio. pH 8.4-8.8 api high range test kit.

I have had mollies in full saltwater tank with a similiar pH for years.

It is not the high pH but rather the reason the pH was high that caused the problems.


But that's just
my .02

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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html
recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden

Agreed with bob here.Also,fish need to be acclimated to your water,not necessarily the temp and PH,but other aspects as well.Its in your fishes best interest to leave the PH be,and drip acclimate them.A fish can live for weeks even a month or so before it drops dead from an improper acclimation period.

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http://bountifulbettas.blogspot.com/

"Come to the dark side....we have cookies...and filters/heaters/and water changes!"

Something's gotta be wrong with that water, I don't think the deaths of the fish are due to the pH. Perhaps they were just a bad group of fish?

That or maybe your LFS keeps mollies in salt water/brackish water. Could putting them straight into freshwater harm them faster than a pH change?

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Yes it can.Thats another reason I drip acclimate.I dont have a hydrometer to test my salinity,and I know other keepers have salt in their water.So going from brackish to fresh or even salt to fresh,and vice versa,will kill them super fast.

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http://bountifulbettas.blogspot.com/

"Come to the dark side....we have cookies...and filters/heaters/and water changes!"

I wont repeat what others have suggested, but may i ask what your tap water PH reading is and how are you testing? Why do you have such a high PH? What is the aquascape of the tank? A good size piece of drift wood would lower you PH, not sure if it is permanent though. The trouble i see here is if you have a neutral PH in tap water, how do you do water changes? A 30% water change could adjust the ph rather quickly and stress the fish. I would be interested to know the answer to my questions if you can.

Oh and to answer your questions, i dont believe in any PH adjusters (the chemical form). They make the ph swing all over the place, it is more important to have a stable PH than one that swings.

Thanks so much guys.

So I HAVE lowered my pH to something around 7.6.-- an improvement. So now my course of action is this:

1) Change filter media more often
2) Vacuum gravel more often
3) change water more often
4) Plant aquarium with live plants

After doing all this and getting some new fish, I hope I can maintain healthy fishies.

Oh, and I think I'll try drip acclimating my new fish for sure. Everyone has been screaming that at me since I joined!

Thanks again....
Rip

Just don't be surprised when the live plants raise your pH. afterall pH increases as carbon dioxide is being consumed by the plants.

my .02

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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html
recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden