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#1 (permalink) |
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I have a 55 gl aquarium and I am fighting algae, its everywere. Ive tried algae control drops, didnt work. I have live plants and about 20 small fish. any advice?
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#2 (permalink) |
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I've never had to battle this personally, but my brother took a few days off from turning his hood light on and the algae abated slightly. His plants suffered, but the algae was eaten back a bit...
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#3 (permalink) |
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....has no life....
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How long are you leaving the lights on for? Keep cutting back on time until you start seeing it go away. 6-8 hours should be more than enough.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Ive cut them way back, some days there not on for an hour or two. I just took all my plants and rocks out and cleaned everything
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#5 (permalink) |
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iFrog
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Couple of issues with algae...
Removing light sources that emit a yellow spectral, ie sunlight, will help. Lessening the nitrates via more controlled feedings. Regular water changes. Be sure to change out any fluorescent bulbs every 6picture months. Hope this helps. ~Scott | iFrog Director
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()/....(.)~(.) ()/...(-------) ---ooO-----Ooo--- Scott • iFrog Director -------------------- iFrog • Expand Your Awareness www.ifrog.us |
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#6 (permalink) |
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master of the mini-tank
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Adding more plants might help, since they'll help remove some of the excess nutrients that might be in the water. Stem plants are especially good with this. However different types of algae have different causes.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Add some Otos or two small Plecos. Both species love Algae. Some people say that large Plecos aren't good Algae eaters but I haven't found that to be the case. Some Freshwater Sprimp also love Algae but large fish also love Shrimp so be careful adding shrimp to your tank.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Bristlenose pleco an otos
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#9 (permalink) |
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iFrog
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A side note to my earlier post. Be sure to keep an eye on the temp of the tank as well. Higher temperatures lower the O2. Less oxygen increases nitrites and nitrates.
On another note. Be cautious adding bios to control algae. This can sometimes backfire. More animals mean more ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. They do come in handy, but adding one at a time is a good decision. Smaller is better too. Use the old bufo marinus (cane toad) dilemma. Adding an animal to control any population (be it fauna or flora) must be done with patience and care, so as not to create a new monster. Hope this helps. ~Scott | iFrog director
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#10 (permalink) |
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iFrog
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It depends upon a number of factors:
Fish load (How many animals per cubic liter/gallon) Water type (Fresh, brackish, or salt) Gravel type (artificial, or natural) Flora load (cichlids tend to eat profusely standard community fish are light feeders) I know this conversation is dealing with fresh water. What I have found is that 78ºf down to 74ºf (26ºc - 23ºc) is an optimal temperature for the populous at large. But that is a blanket statement. Any higher than 79º (27ºc) for long periods of time will cause a problem.
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#11 (permalink) |
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#12 (permalink) |
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I would cut to 6hrs a day and let that ride for a while. Algae affected by the reduced light could take a little while to show effects. I would also manually clean everything the best you could and then just watch to see if it returns at all. Keep control of your nitrate levels and do weekly water changes also. Once the tank has started to balance out, slowly increase the lighting time 1hr at a time. Wait a week to see any difference. If still no algae keep increasing. Once algae starts to show, back down to the last setting you have. Wait at least a week between any time changes to show any effects.
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#14 (permalink) |
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Other than the good advice above, what does the algae look like? green, brown, hairy, slimy, green water? What we call algae can also be cyanobacteria or diodes. Most algae eating fish/snails won't eat all types of algae and causes and treatments can vary. Many will go away on their own if you cut back a bit on light and wait it out. What are the algae control drops? not sure I'd trust them.
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#15 (permalink) |
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iFrog
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Agreed. The type of algae does indeed dictate the treatment approach. A higher temperature will cause an expedited breakdown of nutrients and proteins in the water, resulting in what could be coined as a mini cycle. However, as mentioned previously higher temps cause O2 depletion and a whole new array if problems.
Hope this helps. ~Scott | iFrog director
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#17 (permalink) |
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thinks for all the advice, I added 2 small plecos and cleaned all the plants off
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#18 (permalink) |
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Does it come off easily and what color is it? It could be Cyanobacteria. It is often a blue-green color, slimey, reproduces fast and gives off a swampy smell. It comes off easily when you wipe it with your finger so if you have to scrub at it it's not Cyanobacteria. It is not a true algae, but a bacteria and has the ability to move around somewhat, so if you scrape it off and it falls between the gravel by the next day it will have moved back to a comfortable position. Algae eaters won't usually touch it.
Slime Algae - Causes and Cures for Slime Algae |
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