Hello again, I've recently purchased a 5 stage RO/DI unit from H2O science and I was wondering since I'm going to have to run about 100 feet of tubing from the laundry room to the fish room is it ok if I use 1/4" airline tube instead of their color coded retailer tube? I've tested the airline tube and it fits perfectly and it's nice and snug no chance of a leak that I can see. Do you guys think I can use that since I've already got like 150ft of the stuff. Not to be a penny pincher but 100ft would cost me almost 40 bucks and I've already got a ton of airline tubing that's doing nothing but taking up space in a drawer.

That is a long run. air line tubing is thin and going such a long distance there will be chances kinks in the line. I use refrigerator ice maker lines cost is about $.09 a foot you will have less likelihood of kinking.

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Humm... where did you get your tubing at 09 cents a foot everywhere I've seen it's more like close to 20 cents a foot, thanks for the reply by the way.

You should be able to buy the correct tubing at Lowe's or Home Depot cheap.

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Yeah I was in my local store today but they only had lengths of 10 feet and max was 20 or 25 feet I believe, even online. I could use connectors but I'd rather run just one straight clean line. I'm still looking at my other options there are some sites online with really good prices but the prices go downhill as soon as you add on the shipping it would be the same or more expensive than buying locally and adding a bunch of connectors. It's too bad airline won't be good I had so much of that stuff from before I switched the tank over to saltwater.

yep. use the color line(home depot sells it in white, plumbing aisle) or ice maker line.

the air line wont be firm enough to hold in place with the push lock connectors once pressure from the RO unit is applied.

Do you happen to have a link I was at HD today for about an hour longest I found was 25' I don't know where everyone is seeing this at HD I spent about an hour in there today lowes as well couldn't find it, maybe I'm looking in the wrong place but I was all over the plumbing dept.

I dont have a link I cannot find it on their site. I know for a fact it is by the water filters and plastic plumbing fittings, NOT PVC fittings.

I use a black one 1/2" that I need to upgrade to atleast 3/4 as it takes almost an hour to fill 45g back into my 210 from the ro holding tank.
I am sorry but this MIGHT work(not at the store to see for myself)
Orbit 1/2 In. x 50 Ft. Pro-Blend Riser Flex Pipe - 37154 at The Home Depot

also 25' I think is what its sold as anyways, I used compression couplers to get the length I needed for mine.

Nice find I didn't see the 50 foot but I did find 100ft box at Lowes, meant for landscaping so I think it would be good. Says it's rated at 50psi hopefully this will be enough. Thanks for everyone's help!

http://www.lowes.com/pd_8813-74985-MLT-B100B_4294822036_4294937087_?productId=3135461&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl_TubingHoses_4294822036_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_pro duct_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1%26page%3D2#

Hopefully that will work!

well that depends, id get something rated at around 150psi. I know my water pressure alone without the RO pump(use it to get the water to the upstairs 100g holding tank) is at 87psi.

Im not sure that line will work because its vinyl.(your link)

Humm I guess I'm back at square one then...

I'd buy 2 of the 50' tube you linked but that's 1/2 diameter I believe the unit uses 1/4" doesn't it?

Most 100 GPD and lower RO and RO/DI units use 1/4" ID tubing. If you are going to run 100 feet you would be best to increase the size to 3/8" as the head or friction loss in 100 feet of 1/4" is tremendous.
Most Lowes and Home Depots sell tubing either prepackaged or in bulk the reel off of a spool and measure out for you. If yours does not find a Ace or True Value I know they will have it in bulk.
Change the 1/4" John Guest fitting on the DI outlet to a 1/4" MIP x 3/8" tube and you have it.

One very important thing you will need to do though is measure your waste ratio, it will very likely change with the additional head on the discharge and you will probably need to get either a capillary tube flow restrictor and trim if according to the included directions or an adjustable type with a needled valve. I prefer the capill;ary tube and needle valves can wander over time.

You will not need to increase to anything larger than 3/8" as a normal 75 GPD RO/DI only makes about 6 oz of treated water per minute in the best of conditions so its going to be slow no matter what size tubing, there would be no benefit to anything larger than 3/8". If you were filling an ATO reservoir close to the RO/DI and using a powerhead or pump to move larger volumes of water to the tank then larger tube would be wise.

Would it help if I installed the RO/DI in the fish room instead of under the sink and just ran the input water line and waste water back to the laundry room? I checked out Ace and they do indeed carry it in bulk thanks for the suggestion! The way I was planning on doing it was to connect the ro/di to the cold water line and have an always on water connection to my sump, my ro/di came with an auto shut off and one way resistor or something like that pre-installed. I was going to then have the clean water split into a T and have an automatic top off and a ball valve on the other end to fill my water change bucket when needed.

Hooking a RO/DI directly to your sump is highly discouraged as a float valve could fail and flood your system with fresh RO/DI water, not only causing a flood but also diluting your salt content and killing your inhabitants.
It is much better to fill a remote Auto Topoff reservoir with RO/DI water and top off your tank or sump with a ATO system from there. This limits the amount of water that could possibly flood your system and gives you much more positive control by using a ATO device with electronic float switches or level switches rather than less robust float valves. How many times have you seen a leaking toilet tank, pool self levelling system or evaporative cooler? Float valves fail.

In my case I fill a 23 gallon Rubbermaid recycling can in my garage with RO/DI. From there I have a ATO system which uses a small peristaltic pump to draw water from the storage and transfer it to my sump. The pump is controlled by a electronic pressure switch and has a backup emergency high level float switch in case it fails so I cannot flood my system.

You can find that ATO system as well as a lesser version on sale here:
SpectraPure Customer Appreciation SALE! 20% - 50% off

Mine is the Ultra Precise model which includes the peristaltic pump and an adjustable controller but the $89 model workes well too if you supply something like a Toms Aqualifter pump or small powerhead to move the water.

Long tap water feed lines to the RO/DI are not an issue since they are under pressure. Long treated water lines area bit of an issue as I already explained but long waste lines are not a good idea since they really begin to mess with your waste ratio which is what provides the flushing for your RO membrane. I try to stay close to a water source and sewer drain and run the treated water to the tank. Its less messy that way. My treated water ATO line is about 35 feet from my garage to my sump and has worked flawless.

I've seen that unit my problem, well problems to be exactly are 1) I can't drill either my sump or my tank, 2) my display tank is a 55g and the base has tempered glass warnings all over it, my sump has the same and 3) another problem is space, I don't have any space to put a large reserve of water anywhere. What I was going to use was this:

Level-Loc auto top off unit for RO systems - English

With that unit I've heard I can accomplish the safest refill with little problems, again this is what I've heard. It's got a float valve, a solenoid, and as a third countermeasure I can install it up to a digital timer setting it off for 1 minute intervals serveral times a day. Most importantly it's a hang on which I can install on the side of the tank, so you think this would work?

You don't have to drill anything to use the UPLC or other ATO systems. The ATO reservoir can be anywhere, in a closet, under the stairs, in the garage like mine ...

Visit some of the other forums or ask around about hooking a ATO directly to your RO/DI, you will get a resounding NO from most knowledgable reefers.

The Leveloc system still uses a mechanical float valve. Its a very big and cumbersome arrangement too and takes up valuable real estate in your sump.
Systems like the UPLC and Tunzes Osmolator ar very compact, use digital and electronic pressure sensors so they are very reliable and robust and give you adjustability. I can vary my operating level anywhere from less than 1/10" to as much as 4" by pushing a button. The UPLC also has a feature where I can adjust the pump speed and fill rate so it is impossible to overflow or flood without having to use a seperate timer or other device and the back up float switch is a much better design than the levelloc.
You may also want to ask if the LevelLoc uses 120v AC or 24v DC power, the UPLC is a sealed DC device so is safe around water.
I am very particular what I use in and around my tank, you may want to ask around about Spectrapure products and their reputation, especially the Liter Meter III pump which is what the UPLC uses, its been around for probably 10 years or more and just keeps getting better all the time. Visit their website and dig into some of the tech support drawings and hook up diagrams and the manuals on the various products. I love Bulk Reef for chemicals and stuff but there are much better products for some of their other things like RO and liquid level systems.

what AZ said, get the connectors for 1/2-3/8" I do recommend from your holding tank to go with 3/4" line, I run 1/2" and it takes an hour to fill 40g with it.

I didnt go with an ATO on mine. I have my sump hooked up to my reserve tank of RO but thats about it, have an auto-drain though.