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#1 (permalink) |
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Paul wall
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I have a 30 gallon long planted and I currently have only 20 lbs of gravel as my substrate and im planning on adding eco complete plant substrate under my gravel. I curently use a plant fert and was wondering if after I add the eco complete should I stop fertilizing and If so for how long?
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#2 (permalink) |
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....has no life....
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Many plants will still require ferts. I wouldn't try to add underneath. Just pull out half of the old stuff and put in the eco and then mix.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Paul wall
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ok just wanted to make sure I wasnt over fertilizing. Why not put it underneath? I was just gonna take the gravel and put it in a spare tank with some aquarium water while i added the eco complete then add the gravel back in. my plants are still in pots and i was gonna take them out after doing this.
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#4 (permalink) |
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What do fish think about?
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You'll want the sand at about mid-bottom level, because sand is what plants really like to sink their roots into. There are two major ways to do a proper plant substrate arrangement, in my opinion.
The first is to use mineralized topsoil as the bottom layer and then sand. Mineralized topsoil is basically potting soil that you wet, mush around, and let dry about 10 times to remove most of the heavy-duty fertilizers before you add it to your tank. I've heard mixing the mineralized soil with things like potter's clay is a great way to add a good source of iron. The second way (much safer, and the way I used) is to make the bottom layer some soaked sphagnum peat moss, then do a layer of sand, with an optional top layer of gravel. The peat moss provides some nutrients to your plants, but also buffers your alkalinity. I would read up on this article for some info on substrate and more: Basics to starting a Planted Tank - The Planted Tank
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#5 (permalink) |
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Hello Paul. The mainline company products can get a little pricey for me and I've found alternatives to be more economical and in a lot of cases, a better product.
I've started using organic potting soil as my substrate base and then the standard pea sized gravel to cover it. The potting soil gives the rooted plants long term nutrients. For the stems that get the bulk of their nutrients from the water, I rotate three to four different liquid ferts. I currently use Yamato Green. It has a good mixture of nutrients. I mix a capful of the liquid in a pitcher of my water change water and dose only when the tanks need to be topped off because of evaportation. This will keep the costs down and the plants well fed and growing. BBradbury
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#6 (permalink) |
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FWIW I use no fertz and recommend a layered peat moss,play sand, and pro's choice select (or aquarium gravel) for my substrate layered with peat on the bottom. I do that becaue the peat seems to buffer kH and gh hardness and the sand traps the peat to help keep the tank initially clear. and neon tetras seem to need the peat as well.
my .02
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fw leiden since 1979, fo salt since 1979, mixed reef 55g 2002-2009. Strong emphasis on the tank taking care of itself. Balanced with plant life, no water changes, tap water, no filters in FW. Only dosing calcium, alk, mag in marine reef tanks. http://www.aquariumforum.com/f15/my-...ods-26410.html recent tanks (till 2009) 7 years- 10g FW leiden 7 yrs, 55g mixed reef 7, 2 yrs, 20g FW leiden, 10 g fw leiden , 29g mixed reef, current tank 55g leiden Last edited by beaslbob : 05-09-2011 at 10:23 AM. |
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