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Welcome to the Aquarium Forum forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
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#61 (permalink) |
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#62 (permalink) |
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Thanks I have it up and running now. This is what I have so far, I'm still waiting on the hood. And I still have a few thing to add yet.
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#63 (permalink) |
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I was looking to add a diffusers like this in the next day or two.
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#64 (permalink) |
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How is the tank going? I just read through most of the posts and I am not sure what all you settled on (gravel, lights, plants) but wanted to chime in with a few things that may help.
Lighting: You are using T5 in a 20g. These are high output, hig penetration lights 1 28w bulb will be enough for awhile. Perhaps when your tank is really growing can you add a second bulb. The 6700k bulb is slightly yellowish in tint and is the wavelength most plants like. A 10,000k bulb is usually full spectrum pure white and will work just fine for plants. Gravel: Probably too late, but if you are going with high lights and CO2 I would recommend some clay-like substrates such as flourite, eco-complete...etc. Rinse these out well so you don't have too much mineral leeching into the water. Peat will drop the pH of the water and is unnessary for most fish, especially if you are adding CO2 that will drop the pH even more. Your cloudiness: Unless it is green, is probably a bacteria bloom, not algae bloom, but it could also be nutrients/clay particles if you used one of the above substrate. DiY CO2: Keep an eye out on your pH for a couple of days. See what it is prior to adding it to the tank and see what it drops down to in your tank. You can adjust the bubble rate a bit by sinking the bubbler lower into your tank (more water pressure). You can also fine tune it by adding or subtracting more bottles, bottle size, more/less sugar...etc. If you do not have a high enough kH and GH you may see bigger fluctuations in the pH. RO/DI water is too pure, I would mix it 50/50 with your tap or you will have to add GH booster, pH buffers, on top of your plant nutrients. At night you may want to turn on an airstone if you do not have a lot of surface tension. Plants flip flop at night and give off CO2 while taking in oxygen. You want to make sure your tank has enough oxygen via aeration and gassing off CO2 via some surface tension. Lastly, I noticed you are trying to have a planted tank with ![]() Last edited by Dmaaaaax : 01-06-2010 at 09:06 AM. |
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#65 (permalink) |
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I will be using T5 ho bulbs but I'm waiting for my hood to get finished. So right now I'm using about 30watts of light. On the bottom I have a thin layer of peat moss a thin layer of sand and gravel on top of that. The air stone for the co2 right now is on the bottom of the tank. I just ordered a glass diffuser and when I add that, it will be right next to the intake of my canister filter. I do have a bubble wand under the sand so there is always oxygen being added as-well. I have not tested for Gh/Kh yet but I do have a test kit and PH at last test was 7.2. And as far as the
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#66 (permalink) |
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What is the pH of the water before adding it to the tank? You have to know how much the pH changes with each water change. This is what will affect the fish. For instance I add water that is at pH 7.0-7.2, the CO2 drops that pH down to around 6.5 or lower daily. My CO2 is off at night, but yours will be constantly on, so you want to watch that it does not drop too much.
If you are using just RO/DI water then your hardness is probably around ~1-2, which is low. |
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#67 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#68 (permalink) |
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I finely finished the hood
Its funny the ![]() ![]()
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