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Old 01-02-2010, 09:39 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Default Re: Starting a planted tank

I just added some "flourish" by seachem and now my fish are acting very funny no swimming just kinda laying on the bottom. I didn't add anything thing else should I do a water change? They where fine yesterday. To me they are just gold fish but they mean a lot to my wife. And if I did something to harm them I may be spending the night on the sofa.
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:00 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Default Re: Starting a planted tank

I don't use ferts, but if all you did was add the ferts, I would think a water change would be the best. Did you add it in accordance to the label? Next time you might want to add it slower to see how it will effect your tank.
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:15 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Default Re: Starting a planted tank

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I don't use ferts, but if all you did was add the ferts, I would think a water change would be the best. Did you add it in accordance to the label? Next time you might want to add it slower to see how it will effect your tank.
I did about a 30% water change just now and they were up and moving. I think I just wanted it all to happen to fast. I have to say doing a water change in a fresh water tank is a breeze compared to a saltwater tank. Thanks for getting right back to me.
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:44 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Default Re: Starting a planted tank

That's why I am afraid to try my hand at salt water. It seems like it would be harder/more time consuming.
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:04 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Default Re: Starting a planted tank

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That's why I am afraid to try my hand at salt water. It seems like it would be harder/more time consuming.
It's is time consuming in the begining, but like everthing else you get out of it what you put into it. With a good start it will be up and running in no time. Please let me know if you decide to take that leap. I have a lot of information that would make that treck a lot easier.
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:50 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Default Re: Starting a planted tank

If I do end up trying salt water, and I do because the fish are beautiful, it won't be for awhile. The whole being 24 and living with my parents puts a damper on alot of things including adding more fish tanks. Must finish college and get a job first
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:12 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Default Re: Starting a planted tank

The second bottle (gas separator bottle) is just filled with regular water.
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:30 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Default Re: Starting a planted tank

I just looked at the tank and it a little cloudy not much but it's there I have carbon in the filter and I setting up the o2 now. There are about 6 or 7 plants and out of one I have a little yellowing in some leaves I do not have a green thumb out of the water so I guess I can make this work well I hoping anyway. So how much water in the secound bottle maybe half full?
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Old 01-03-2010, 03:35 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Doesn't matter really. As long as the water level is higher than the end of the tubing. I usually fill to about 3/4.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:22 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Default Re: Starting a planted tank

t seems there is way to much of available nutrients, which arent being used at a quicker rate. Therefore the excess nutrients are causing some algae build up, in your tank as well on your plant leaves.

But when i first got Anubias, the 2-3 leaves did ended up yellow or even deteriorate for a bit. But soon after 2-3 weeks new leaves started to grow out....


Also if you are interested in learning about growing aquatic plants, the more you learn the better grasp you will have on them. And there are great resources online, plus the abundant knowledge that is available on this forum.


You have ample light for Anubias and probably more than enough fertilizer unless you have some good nutrient hogs in there. With no CO2, you could lower the light intensity by raising you light a bit which can help with the algae. (You may also consider adjusting your photoperiod.

since this plant is a slow grower, you can easily be dealing with a chronic state of nutrient deficiency (seems to be low iron chlorosis for the yellowing, magnesium is also possible but id agree its Fe) and these ferts you are dosing may not have time to correct it for that round of growth you are seeing. matter of fact I can't recall one single time in ten years that a cholorotic leaf ever corrected itself, it's always the next round you have to check, so expect that leaf to get worse even if you correct your nutrient issue.

Id look more to your new shoots and make sure they are normal, if so just prune these when they get ready. a little algae isn't terrible, unless your tank is years old I'd consider it normal as it's still balancing relative to what you keep in it and how you feed and clean it. steady states take a while.

also, even though you listed faster growing plants the amount you'd have to have relative to your bioloading and fert addition would have to be astounding to uptake all that business. In other words, even your fast growers aren't dense enough to really scrub the system for you, although they are still fast growing. you should step up water changes imo for a while and use a low dose sustrate fert pellet to keep ferts out of the water column, not the heavy phosphorous ones be sure and check the lable to make sure these major nutrients and balanced by micro ones as well. There are some pellet fertilizers for tanks that are just phos, potassium and nitrate and those are algae farms although they will sprout the heck out of your plants. You can also cheat 99% of this process by using an oversized UV light although most will recommend a natural approach. When I put one onmy tank it corrected the problem for me, -then- i learned the natural approach and used it on other tanks.
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:46 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Default Re: Starting a planted tank

Great post spawn...I took benefit from it as well.
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:36 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Default Re: Starting a planted tank

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t seems there is way to much of available nutrients, which arent being used at a quicker rate. Therefore the excess nutrients are causing some algae build up, in your tank as well on your plant leaves.

But when i first got Anubias, the 2-3 leaves did ended up yellow or even deteriorate for a bit. But soon after 2-3 weeks new leaves started to grow out....


Also if you are interested in learning about growing aquatic plants, the more you learn the better grasp you will have on them. And there are great resources online, plus the abundant knowledge that is available on this forum.


You have ample light for Anubias and probably more than enough fertilizer unless you have some good nutrient hogs in there. With no CO2, you could lower the light intensity by raising you light a bit which can help with the algae. (You may also consider adjusting your photoperiod.

since this plant is a slow grower, you can easily be dealing with a chronic state of nutrient deficiency (seems to be low iron chlorosis for the yellowing, magnesium is also possible but id agree its Fe) and these ferts you are dosing may not have time to correct it for that round of growth you are seeing. matter of fact I can't recall one single time in ten years that a cholorotic leaf ever corrected itself, it's always the next round you have to check, so expect that leaf to get worse even if you correct your nutrient issue.

Id look more to your new shoots and make sure they are normal, if so just prune these when they get ready. a little algae isn't terrible, unless your tank is years old I'd consider it normal as it's still balancing relative to what you keep in it and how you feed and clean it. steady states take a while.

also, even though you listed faster growing plants the amount you'd have to have relative to your bioloading and fert addition would have to be astounding to uptake all that business. In other words, even your fast growers aren't dense enough to really scrub the system for you, although they are still fast growing. you should step up water changes imo for a while and use a low dose sustrate fert pellet to keep ferts out of the water column, not the heavy phosphorous ones be sure and check the lable to make sure these major nutrients and balanced by micro ones as well. There are some pellet fertilizers for tanks that are just phos, potassium and nitrate and those are algae farms although they will sprout the heck out of your plants. You can also cheat 99% of this process by using an oversized UV light although most will recommend a natural approach. When I put one onmy tank it corrected the problem for me, -then- i learned the natural approach and used it on other tanks.
Thanks for this post...It's not a algae problem in fact it may even be to soon for algae to form it only been running a few days. I think the
cloudy water may have just come from things getting settled in it's not all the way clear yet but it's more clear now. I did add co2 this evening. I will change out some water tomorrow to take more of the ferts out. I think I just added it to soon.
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:43 AM   #53 (permalink)
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I just posted my DIY CO2 method.

Here's the link:

DIY CO2 Made Easy
You may want to look this over a little and do a little tweeking to make it more clear. I had a few problem understanding a few things like the second bottle and it's not listed when to or where to add the baking soda. I have it up and running now. Thanks for this post as-well
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:39 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Doesn't matter really. As long as the water level is higher than the end of the tubing. I usually fill to about 3/4.
I have a question. First bottle is where the gas is made the tube from the first bottle is about 1" from the lid. In the second bottle the tube coming from the gas bottle is not under water, but the tubing coming out of the 2nd bottle into the tank is under water.....My question is..........is this the way it is suppose to be? The water from the 2nd bottle is being transfered into the tank and that makes the tank water level rise and I have to keep putting water into the 2nd bottle.
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:13 AM   #55 (permalink)
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I believe you have it backwards. The tube from bottle 1 to bottle 2 should be underwater so that you can count the bubbles. Then the tube leaving bottle 2 should be about the water line so that the pressurized gas can flow into the tank.
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:21 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Here is a pic that should help. Google "diy co2 aquarium" images. A really good DIY CO2 pic came up but it was in the wrong format to post on here.
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:30 AM   #57 (permalink)
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nice post...
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:58 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Default Re: Starting a planted tank

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You may want to look this over a little and do a little tweeking to make it more clear. I had a few problem understanding a few things like the second bottle and it's not listed when to or where to add the baking soda. I have it up and running now. Thanks for this post as-well
I can do that...curious...what wasn't clear on the seperator bottle? Definately don't want to confuse anyone. I did find where it was not mentioned to fill the seperator bottle with water. I just modifed the DIY thread to reflect that. Thanks.

As for the baking soda, it is in there in Step III - #7.

Last edited by James0816 : 01-04-2010 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:06 AM   #59 (permalink)
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I have a question. First bottle is where the gas is made the tube from the first bottle is about 1" from the lid. In the second bottle the tube coming from the gas bottle is not under water, but the tubing coming out of the 2nd bottle into the tank is under water.....My question is..........is this the way it is suppose to be? The water from the 2nd bottle is being transfered into the tank and that makes the tank water level rise and I have to keep putting water into the 2nd bottle.

You're tubes are not right.

- The tube in the gas bottle should be sticking out ~ 1/4" in the cap.
- The tube from the gas bottle to the seperator bottle should be long enough to create a curve in the seperator bottle. The curved end should be under water
- The tube from the seperator bottle to the tank should be sticking out ~ 1/4" in the cap. This tube should be long enough ( ~ 2' ) to be able to adjust the diffuser anywhere in the tank.

Read over the DIY again and examine the pics as well. Hope that didn't sound mean. If there is anything in there that is confusing, please let me know so I can clean it up. It is meant to be easy for all to use.
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:51 AM   #60 (permalink)
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I can do that...curious...what wasn't clear on the seperator bottle? Definately don't want to confuse anyone. I did find where it was not mentioned to fill the seperator bottle with water. I just modifed the DIY thread to reflect that. Thanks.

As for the baking soda, it is in there in Step III - #7.
I printed it out and the baking soda part was on my 3rd page so that was my bad...And I'm glad you added how the tubing goes in the second bottle. I'm going to redo the tubing all the way around. As alway thank-you this has been a nice experience.

ps add a pic or 2 looking straight into the side of the bottle.. most are just from the top, that way can see the placement of the tubes.
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